Edgar Chase IV has fond memories of red beans and rice, starting from when he was a small child. “In New Orleans, it is your Monday night meal. It’s also Carnival — going out to enjoy the parades and have some red beans and rice,” explains Chase.

He learned how to make the dish from his grandmother, Leah Chase, also known as the Queen of Creole Cuisine, whose culinary skills brought people from across the globe to Dooky Chase’s Restaurant in New Orleans – and made them fans for life. Leah Chase started in the family business after she married Dooky Chase, Jr. in 1946, and her culinary prowess was never short on admirers. The list includes Presidents Barack Obama and George W. Bush and musicians Duke Ellington, Ray Charles, Jay-Z and Beyoncé, to name just a few. In fact, the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History in Washington, DC celebrates her life and legacy with an exhibit featuring artifacts like her cooking pot, restaurant menu, and one of her iconic bright pink chef’s jackets. And there was even a Disney movie that drew inspiration from her true story: The Princess and the Frog.

Let that bean work!

Edgar Chase IV took over when Chef Leah passed away in 2019, and he’s honored to carry on her legacy. “Growing up, everyone [in the family] worked in the restaurant,” said Chase, who started out washing dishes and busing tables at around 14 years old. Chase added, “I always wanted to hang in the back of the kitchen.” He’d watch his grandmother, then go home and re-create a dish from the restaurant, then bring it in for her to taste. “Her palate was so amazing, she picked up any misstep,” Chase said. “She would say ‘You need more of this … cook longer…’ and whatever she said, it came out better.” Among those dishes was red beans and rice. “We start with the smoked ham shank and smoked sausage, add salt, pepper and thyme and really just cook slowly to let that bean work,” he said, “then we finish with black pepper and vegetable oil to cream them up.”

The beans are going to speak for themselves.

“When you are cooking with Camellia Red Beans,” said Chase, “you are starting with quality. And you don’t have to do too much to red beans and rice to make it shine.” Chase is among those in the kitchen making the dish, including his cousin Cleo Robinson and Mister Bynah — better known as “Mister B” — who are making sure the red beans and rice are ready when the restaurant opens. Robinson is also the cook for the restaurant’s famed fried chicken, which is served with red beans and rice. Other dishes that lure in diners are the shrimp Clemenceau, stewed chicken, crawfish étouffée, Creole gumbo and Leah Chase’s famous gumbo z’herbes, a dish traditionally served for the Catholic observance of Holy Thursday. 

More than the sum of its food.

Leah and Dooky made sure that the restaurant was always more than just a place to eat; it was also a safe community gathering spot during segregation, and as such it played an integral role in the Civil Rights movement. In honor of this history, it was recently placed on the state’s Civil Rights Trail. Dooky Chase’s Restaurant continues to stay its course in the community as a culinary icon, a gathering place,  a way of life – and a celebration of New Orleans.

Written by Sue Strachan

Another Southern Tradition

When it comes enjoying a big steaming bowl of creamy red beans and rice, there are those who subscribe to the “more is more” philosophy. For example, in addition to the smoked sausage or ham hock or pickled pork that adds meaty flavor to red beans, many enjoy the additional meaty southern tradition of fried chicken alongside their beans. There’s just something about the creaminess of the beans combined with the crunchiness of the fried chicken that makes it a winning taste sensation.

A Favorite Combination at Restaurants and More

In fact, fried chicken is probably the most common treat paired with red beans and rice at favorite eateries, with the ubiquitous combo found at chains like Popeyes, as well as at mom and pop restaurants in New Orleans like Café Reconcile, Dunbar’s, and Willie Mae’s Scotch House. Interestingly, though it’s not on the public-facing menu, fried chicken and red beans & rice is one of the most popular secret suppers served to staff at upscale Galatoire’s. And according to Chef Anthony Scanio of Delmonico, “Of course, red beans and rice are a staple at New Orleans get-togethers; surely, fried chicken…is more than likely to be part of the pot luck.” Even Lolis Eric Elie, a New Orleans master storyteller, journalist, documentary filmmaker, and cookbook author, declares, “I love red beans and fried chicken as a combination.”

Finally, when asked “What’s the secret to your red beans?”, one loyal fan put it this way:

“Pickled meat, garlic, bay leaf, onions, and let them simmer on top of the stove! Serve over rice with a little hot sauce, fried chicken, and fresh French bread!”
Daphine J.

Lady Cream Peas, Crowder Peas, and Field Peas

Some of our favorite Southern staples include three delicious varieties of peas that are treasured among those who know them, love them, and probably grew up eating them. Lady Cream Peas, Crowder Peas, and Field Peas are humble, endearing, and homespun. They’re also commonly known as “cowpeas” or “southern peas”. And with one simple recipe that can be personalized to your liking, they’ll simmer into a delightful pot of creamy goodness to be enjoyed alone or alongside other Deep South delights.

If you’re not familiar with these peas, here’s a bit of backstory. Despite their names, none of these varieties is actually a pea. These beans were brought to the New World from Africa and became part of the Southern diet beginning in the 1600s. Cowpeas are commonly grown in the South since they are adaptable, heat-tolerant, and drought-resistant.

Cook up any of these three pea varieties, and the result will be a perfect comfort food dish for rounding out your favorite Southern meal. What you’ll find here is one simple, original recipe from the Hayward family (owners of Camellia beans), that was personalized and named for the particular pea varieties and the family members who loved them. (Our Lil’ Auntie loved lady cream peas, Patricia favored field peas, and Clayton had to cook up crowder peas!) The recipe is easy to follow and brings out the flavors of each of the three different peas; simply personalize the pot based on the pea variety and seasoning meat you choose. You can also make these peas vegetarian by using olive oil or vegetable oil. Otherwise, the basic recipe features butter or oil, diced onion, mashed garlic, a generous mixture of dried herbs that’s often called a bouquet garni, as well as salt and pepper. These Hayward family favorites are still served today at get-togethers and holidays!

Lil’ Auntie’s Lady Cream Peas

Here, Lil’ Auntie’s Lady Cream Peas are simmered with a hearty ham shank for meaty flavor, then combined with the sautéed vegetables and seasonings, and cooked till tender. With a sweet flavor, creamy texture, and clear pot liquor, Lady Cream Peas are lovely served over rice, and this dish pairs well with other Southern pleasures like smothered okra and homemade cornbread.

Patricia’s Perfect Field Peas

Patricia’s Perfect Field Peas are cooked here with smoked sausage for wonderfully savory flavor — and then, just like the lady cream peas — mixed with the sautéed vegetables and seasonings, and simmered till soft. Ideal in soul food dishes, field peas are similar in flavor and texture to blackeye peas — in other words, they’ve got a distinctive, delicate flavor all their own. And when served over rice, alongside creamy mac ‘n cheese and a loaf of crusty French bread, Patricia’s Perfect Field Peas are irresistible.

Clayton’s Crowder Peas

For a different kind of smoky flavor, we cooked Clayton’s Crowder Peas with smoked turkey legs and then simmered them till tender with the sautéed vegetables and seasonings. The crowder pea variety gets its name from the way its peas crowd themselves in the pod; it has a rich, hearty flavor and creates a dark pot liquor when cooked. Serve these beauties smothered over rice, alongside fried chicken and biscuits, and your family and friends will be in heaven.

Pick your pea, and get cooking. Or try all three, and see which one you prefer. They’re all delicious Southern staples that deserve their rightful place at the table.

Perfect Southern Peas

Ingredients:

• 1 (1-pound) package Camellia Brand Crowder Peas, Lady Cream Peas, or Field Peas
• 1/2 pound seasoning meat or 1/4 pound butter
• 10 cups water
• 1 teaspoon butter or olive oil (optional)
• 1 large onion, diced
• 1 toe garlic, pressed
• 1 1/2 teaspoons your favorite dried garden herbs or Camellia’s suggested Dry Herb Blend
• Salt
• Coarse ground pepper

Directions:

1. Rinse and sort peas.
2. Cover peas with water, add seasoning meat or butter, and simmer about 1 hour.
3. Sauté onion and garlic in butter or olive oil, add to pot with remaining ingredients, and  cook 1/2 hour or until soft.
4. Salt and pepper to taste.