As to be expected in New Orleans, the Krewe of Red Beans’ Bean Madness Championship in 2019 was fiercely contested,  bringing red beans and rice to the spotlight of culinary competitions. And, as with any challenge, there can only be one winner. 

The Queen of Red Beans is crowned.

Emily Shaya was crowned the Queen of Red Beans — with her recipe now creating new fans at Miss River, where red beans and rice isn’t just a Monday tradition — it’s celebrated daily. The restaurant, located in the Four Seasons New Orleans Hotel, is part of Pomegranate Hospitality, which owns Saba and Safta’s Kitchen in New Orleans, as well as other restaurants in the U.S. and the Bahamas.

The restaurant’s cuisine is guided by Emily’s husband, Chef Alon Shaya, himself a winner of two James Beard Foundation Awards. But when it comes to red beans and rice at Miss River, which is Chef Alon’s culinary homage to Louisiana cuisine, it’s Emily’s red beans and rice recipe that’s the star.

Studying the art and science of perfect red beans.

So how did this native of Georgia embrace one of the city’s most beloved dishes? Emily’s deep dive into New Orleans food began when she attended Tulane University as an undergraduate and its A.B. Freeman School of Business. Afterwards, while living in Atlanta, she got homesick for New Orleans food. “I missed New Orleans so much that I wanted to bring that piece of it there,” says Emily.

She experimented with cookbook recipes and the instructions on the back of the Camellia Brand Red Kidney Bean bag, brought back ingredients from her trips to New Orleans, and used her creativity to craft her signature dish.

“I decided I really wanted to perfect red beans,” says Emily.

Once she returned to New Orleans for good, her kitchen became a hub for friends and family to gather around simmering pots of beans.

The meat stock is the thing!

The red beans recipe would evolve even more with trips to local grocery stores. “I’d see what kind of interesting meats we could get — sausage or pickled pork … we eventually found pickled turkey necks and experimented with that for a while,” she says. 

A key ingredient became a rich, gelatinous stock made from chicken wings and sometimes pork. “I think the stock is really important,” says Emily. “It makes the beans creamy because the base is not water.” That and simmering the beans all day are “kind of like my secret weapons.”

Another key step for Emily is soaking the beans. “I just think it makes life a little bit easier,” she explains. “You don’t have to watch over the beans as much if you soak them.”

Here’s where to come eat these perfect red beans:

Her red beans recipe was adapted for Miss River, “So it has all the love and care that we do at home. The team here in the kitchen does it every day.” Emily’s red beans and rice are featured in two ways at Miss River: as a side dish, Emily’s Famous Red Beans and Rice, or as an entrée, Emily’s Famous Red Beans and Rice with Buttermilk-fried Chicken.

“We really wanted to pair fried chicken with our red beans and rice,” says Emily. “We’re kind of famous for our fried chicken here. We [also] do a whole chicken that is really a spectacle.”

Why Camellia Brand beans? For Emily, the answer is simple: consistency. “When you are soaking your beans, you can see how clean the water looks. You know you will always get beautiful beans from Camellia.”

Emily, who is a co-founder and director of New Projects at Pomegranate Hospitality, is still making her red beans and rice for family and friends as often as she can.

Whether in her own kitchen or made by the staff at Miss River, each pot carries the same intention: to feed, comfort and create lasting memories.

Emily Shaya’s Famous Red Beans and Rice Recipe

Bring Emily Shaya’s red beans home — a soulful, slow-simmered taste of New Orleans tradition, straight from Miss River’s kitchen.

Courtesy of Emily Shaya | Founder and Director of New Projects, Pomegranate Hospitality (New Orleans: Saba, Saba’s Lounge, Miss River and Chandelier Bar at Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, Safta’s Table; Denver: Safta, Ceci! Italian Lounge; Bahamas: Silan at Atlantis Paradise Island)

Miss River, Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, 2 Canal St.; (504) 434-5701, missrivernola.com/; on Instagram. 

If there is a restaurant known for both its adherence to tradition and innovation in the culinary and hospitality world, it’s Commander’s Palace.

Guests know when they go to the restaurant, the menu will have turtle soup au sherry, shrimp and tasso Henican, eggs Sardou and Creole bread pudding soufflé, among the offerings. But they also know that new dishes, in keeping with the restaurant’s practice of allowing its chefs — which included legends Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse — to add unique flavors to the menu.

So, when COOLinary, an event that happens throughout August featuring New Orleans restaurants, Commander’s Palace Executive Chef Meg Bickford got busy dreaming up some new dishes.

The Cochon de Lait Tostada

The result? Among them, the Cochon de Lait Tostada, a dish that has been on the restaurant’s menu in other variations, but now it had a Bickford twist.

This multi-layered iteration consists of garlic- and hot sauce-rubbed fall apart 18-hour smoked pork shoulder on a crisp tortilla with smoky boudin, creamy red bean purée, pickled corn and okra chow chow, crumbled Cotija and charred poblano aioli.

Not only does the red bean purée made from Camellia Red Kidney Beans act as the foundation of the dish — and contributes a “rich, earthy flavor,” says Bickford — it is a great sauce to dip and mix the dish’s other ingredients into. It is also a time-tested Commander’s Palace recipe.

“We braise the red beans with tons of andouille and house-made tasso,” says Bickford. “Then we puree the whole thing with pickled okra and roasted garlic. We’ll add a mound of butter into it so it’s nice, shiny and silky.”

“It’s just phenomenal … I could eat with just a spoon!”

Camellia Beans: An Essential Ingredient

Bickford, whose family is from Cut Off and New Orleans, grew up well-versed in south Louisiana cuisine, “Both my parents cooked, kind of everybody in my family cooks. It’s a rite of passage.”

“We always had Camellia Beans in the pantry. And no matter where we lived, we always used Camellia Beans.”

“It’s a very consistent product. They’re very clean, which a lot of people don’t think about. But when you’re not finding rocks or sand in your beans, it’s a big deal,” she says.

“It also goes beyond brand recognition … you want to use a local product, and that product proves itself to be superior.”

Rich and Buttery

Camellia Red Kidney Beans are also used for the red beans and rice made for the staff meal on Monday.

“Serving red beans and rice every Monday is more than just a meal — it’s a tradition rooted deep in New Orleans culture. It’s how we start the week together, just like families have done here for generations,” says Bickford. “Around that pot of beans, our team becomes a family, sharing stories, laughter and the spirit of this city we love.”

Everyone in the kitchen takes turns making the family meal — for Commander’s Palace, it’s all part of working as a team and part of its culture.

Another bean Bickford is a fan of is the Camellia Cannellini Beans for the garlic-braised white beans, served with a pork tenderloin.

Bickford favors these beans because they are “super rich and buttery, and it kind of gives this nutty flavor a little.”

She also features the cannellini bean in the heartier white bean cassoulet available at the restaurant’s Le Petit Bleu, its Parisian-style cafe next door highlighted inside and out by the restaurant’s signature color, Commander’s blue.

Rooted in New Orleans culture, the restaurant’s use of local Camellia beans — from red beans to cannellini beans — honors heritage, quality and good food not just for COOLinary, but all year long.

Commander’s Palace, 1403 Washington Ave., NOLA 70130; 504.899.8221; commanderspalace.com/ ; on Instagram.

Defying gravity, Galliano’s Pork Chop LaPlace is a study in vertical culinary construction: a base of red beans, then cornbread and ham hock dressing, topped with an andouille-stuffed Berkshire pork chop (cold smoked and grilled), upon which three onion rings are carefully placed, then finished with a “tiger sauce.”

It has probably given a few diners pause on how to start eating; nevertheless, it is one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes.

A Cajun Concept Restaurant

Located in the Warehouse District, Galliano opened in December 2016 as a “very casual Cajun concept,” says co-owner Manny Pineda. When COVID-19 hit in early 2020 and the restaurant lost a steady customer base from the nearby Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, the decision was made to revamp the menu offerings.

“I am a fine dining brat,” admits Pineda, who worked his way through college at a number of fine-dining establishments in New Orleans, including Emeril’s. It was there that he met Chef Ricky Cheramie, with whom he and a business partner opened Restaurant Rebirth, a Creole-and Cajun-inspired farm-to-table restaurant. Later, he opened Galliano on the same city block.

For the new Galliano menu, Pineda and Cheramie harkened back to their fine dining backgrounds and added traditional homestyle Cajun dishes with a few twists — such as the Pork Chop LaPlace, a Cheramie creation.

But even with this menu elevation, traditional dishes such as red beans and rice are on the menu – alongside jambalaya, gumbo, blackened Gulf fish, and others.

The restaurant also focuses on local sourcing, such as Camellia Red Red Kidney Beans – for Pork Chop LaPlace, as well as the traditional red beans and rice offering.

Traditional Red Beans & Rice: How They Make It 

“We start with the trinity [onion, bell peppers, celery]. Add all the seasonings such as Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Meat Magic Cajun Seasonings, paprika, and cook it all down,” says Pineda. “We add a little bit of ham hock in there, some andouille sausage, cook it some, then throw in the Camellia red beans,” which have been soaking overnight.

“Chicken stock is added, then bay leaves, and it is all cooked down to the right consistency.”

What is the “secret” ingredient? “We add a couple of smoked pork chops in, while the red beans are cooking down,” says Pineda.

Once the pork chops are done, and the chef pulls them out, the meat basically falls off the bone. It is then chopped and mixed back into the red beans to cook further. When finished, the red beans are served with Louisiana long-grain rice.

It all combines into a hearty dish, one that has its roots firmly in Galliano, the town in southeast Louisiana that Cheramie hails from.  

Galliano, 200 Julia St., gallianorestaurant.com; on Instagram; Mon.-Sat. 5 p.m.-10 p.m.

Photo: Kat Kimball

Elevating the Meat-and-Three

Like many beloved Southern restaurants, Hot Stuff may look like an unassuming building on the outside with a smoker in the parking lot — but on the inside, a culinary party is waiting to start.

Nathan Barfield, the co-owner of Hot Stuff, wanted to open a “meat-and-three” restaurant – an old school, Southern, cafeteria-style plate lunch spot centered around the tradition of one meat accompanied by three sides and bread.

It’s a style of restaurant found across the South, though mostly outside of New Orleans. But at Hot Stuff, the concept has found a new home.

The menu features meats that include fried chicken, hamburger steak au poivre, Mississippi pot roast, and smoked chicken wings with pineapple habanero white barbecue sauce. Daily specials include New Orleans’ favorite Monday dish, red beans and rice

Photo: Kat Kimball

A Monday Must: Red Beans and Rice

Barfield starts his red beans by soaking the beans overnight. When it’s time to make the beans, he adds the Trinity (bell pepper, onion and celery) to another pot, and sautés it in vegetable oil until soft. Then comes the Creole seasoning, Crystal Hot Sauce, black pepper, salt, red beans and usually a smoked meat.

“It could be a ham hock, or any of the trim when we smoke ribs — in general, some sort of smoked pork,” says Barfield, adding that sometimes it could contain just one type of pork, or a mixture of all three, giving each Monday’s offering a slightly different flavor, but still consistent in taste.

Rather than adding smoked sausage during the cooking process, he instead adds Conecuh sausage on top when serving. Diners can also request the red beans and rice with a piece of chicken or a pork chop.

Barfield, a native of Monroeville, Alabama, learned how to make red beans and rice when he moved to New Orleans. He worked at The High Hat Café, followed by a stint at Turkey and the Wolf. There, he met Hot Stuff’s co-owner Mason Hereford, and the duo came up with the idea for the restaurant.

Barfield only uses Camellia Red Kidney Beans for the dish, as well as the company’s Blackeye Peas for one of the restaurant’s vegan sides.

“It’s the standard. They’re good,” he says, about Camellia Beans. “With other beans, you have to sort through them to see if there are rocks and other things. In the years I have been cooking, I have never had a bad bag of beans. It gives me peace of mind knowing I can just open the bag to use it, and it’s good.”

Photo: Kat Kimball

An Homage to Southern and New Orleans Culture

The attention to detail can also be found in the décor of Barfield’s restaurant with its homage to Southern and New Orleans culture. A Mardi Gras Indian suit from the 9th Ward Seminole tribe, sewn and worn by one of the restaurant’s cooks, Durel Randall, is one of the first things you see upon entering the restaurant.

Photo: Kat Kimball

The back patio — its Southern shack feel adorned with old signs, including one from Bojangle’s — is Barfield’s pièce de résistance. “I like to say it’s like your redneck uncle got hit by a bus, finally got his insurance payout, and he needed to spruce up the area where he drank his beers.”

Hot Stuff, 7507 Maple St.; Mon, Wed, Thurs, 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri and Sat. 11 a.m. – Midnight, Sun. 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.; hotstuffneworleans.com; @hotstuffneworleans.

New Orleans is famous for its music, festivals, and of course—its food. And no visit to the Big Easy is complete without a comforting bowl of red beans & rice. Whether you’re in town for a weekend getaway, a festival, or just craving the flavors of Louisiana, these local favorites serve up some of the best bowls in the city.

Check out a few of our top picks:

Mother’s

The origin of the red beans and rice recipe at Mother’s starts with the founders, Simon and Mary “Mother” Landry, who opened the business in 1938 and fed the neighborhood’s longshoremen, warehouse workers, and others looking for hearty New Orleans dishes.

Mother’s Restaurant, 401 Poydras Street, www.mothersrestaurant.net, (504) 523-9656. Hours: 7 days, 7 a.m.-10 p.m.

Li’l Dizzy’s

At Li’l Dizzy’s, the red beans are served only on Mondays and usually sell out. Customers can thank head chef John Cannon (who some may know for playing the tuba in the Stooges Brass Band) for the delicious dish.

Li’l Dizzy’s, 1500 Esplanade Ave., lildizzyscafe.net; on Instagram; (504) 766-8687; Mon-Sat. 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Dooky Chase

Edgar Chase IV learned how to make red beans & rice from his grandmother, Leah Chase. Known as the Queen of Creole Cuisine, Leah and her culinary skills brought people from across the globe to Dooky Chase.

Dooky Chase, 2301 Orleans Ave, dookychaserestaurants.com; on Instagram; (504) 821-0600; Lunch, Tuesday – Friday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m; Dinner Fridays and Saturdays Only, 5:30 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

Creole Queen

Relax during a 2-hour cruise on the Mississippi River while enjoying the Creole Queen Paddlewheeler’s vegan red beans & rice. The delicious dish is available on their brunch and dinner Mississippi River cruises leaving from New Orleans Spanish Plaza.

Creole Queen, Spanish Plaza, New Orleans, tickets/reservations, 504.587.1719 or 1.800.445.4109; creolequeen.com

Katie’s

Katie’s owner Scott Craig shares that he makes his red beans and rice like he makes his greens —with a lot of meat. “I like to use smoked sausage and pickled meats, sometimes I’ll add turkey necks or other meats, anything that will bring it flavor,” he says.

Katie’s Restaurant and Bar, 3701 Iberville St., katiesinmidcity.com; on Instagram; 504.488.6582. Hours: Mon.-Thus. 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

Liuzza’s

Many like to enjoy Liuzza’s classic red beans & rice alongside the restaurant’s signature 18 oz. goblets of frosty cold beers — or an Abita root beer. Delish!

Liuzza’s Restaurant and Bar, 3636 Bienville St., New Orleans; liuzzas.com; Hours: Mon. 11 a.m. – 8 p.m., Tues. Closed; Weds. 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Thurs.-Sat.11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.

Heard Dat Kitchen

What is Chef Jeffrey Heard’s secret to his red beans & rice? Don’t rush the beans. “I found slow cooking them on that real low fire is what really will make them creamy.”

Heard Dat Kitchen, 2520 Felicity St., (504) 510-4248, @hearddat on Instagram, heardatkitchen.com. Hours: Mon. – Sat., 11 a.m.- 8 p.m.

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a local looking for your next bowl, these spots are sure to satisfy your red beans & rice craving.

Where have you bean? Share your favorite NOLA spots with us on social!

When it comes to red beans and rice, there are traditionalists who say that some sort of meat, preferably ham, pickled ham, or smoked sausage, has to be part of the recipe. The crew at Creole Queen Paddlewheeler would beg to differ; it serves vegan red beans and rice. “It’s super creamy and flavorful,” says Creole Queen Food and Beverage Manager Tydra Ekeh, noting it reminds her of her grandmother’s red beans at Sunday dinner. “It’s a delicious and healthy alternative to the meat options,” she adds. Made with Camellia Brand Red Kidney Beans, the dish is also practical. It is the only vegan offering on the Creole Queen and is soy- and gluten-free, catering to those with food allergies.

A Nostalgic Dish on the Mighty Mississippi
Prepared off-premises by Pigéon Catering using a Creole Queen recipe, the dish is available on brunch and dinner Mississippi River cruises leaving from New Orleans Spanish Plaza. In keeping with the nostalgic feel of the paddlewheel, the red beans and rice are another link to an earlier era. According to Susan Tucker’s New Orleans Cuisine, red beans have always been “a cultural phenomenon, a tradition dating back for hundreds of years.”

Red Beans & Rice and Historical Sights
Passengers enjoy the vegan red beans and rice while sitting in one of the paddlewheeler’s dining areas during the scenic five-mile route along the river. Between the red beans and the views, one can experience a meaningful connection to New Orleans’ rich history, seeing modern cityscapes alongside historical sights, while enjoying a dish as ubiquitous a symbol of New Orleans as the fleur-de-lis.

Launched in 1983, the Creole Queen is a replica of an authentic 19th-century paddlewheeler, and Captain Brian Clesi has been at the helm since 2005. The boat has a diesel-electric engine to power the stern paddlewheel, a big difference from those that plied the river in the 19th century. These boats were first introduced in 1811 by Robert Fulton, Robert R. Livingston, and Nicholas Roosevelt.

It’s hard not to imagine Mark Twain on a paddlewheeler back in the day, savoring the red beans and rice, much like today’s families, couples, and travelers do on the Creole Queen. After all, it’s a culinary rite as common as Carnival.

Creole Queen: Spanish Plaza, New Orleans, tickets/reservations, 504.587.1719 or 1.800.445.4109; creolequeen.com;

Bienvenue Means “Welcome” in French

It’s those personal touches that make Bienvenue — which means “welcome” in French — a great addition to the roster of classic, old school, New Orleans neighborhood restaurants.

Open since 2018, Bienvenue offers a menu that’s a creative mix of American/Southern cuisine and traditional New Orleans dishes. Almond-crusted gulf shrimp and filet mignon are served right alongside po-boys and red beans & rice.

Red Beans & Rice: A Classic Slow-Cooked Recipe

What type of beans does Bienvenue use? Camellia Brand Red Kidney Beans, of course.

That’s the way it has always been. The current chef, Matthew Knoff, uses a classic recipe developed when the restaurant opened.

As per Bienvenue custom, the beans are soaked in water for 24 hours, and “I season them while they soak,” says Knoff. He adds bay leaves and some other spices, which he says are a “secret.”

When the 24 hours are up, the mixture is cooked over a low flame.

Knoff then chops green peppers, red peppers, and onions, and adds them to a pan in which he has cooked smoked sausage and bacon, adding more bacon grease as needed. When completed, this mixture is added to the beans.

The Result is Creamy Red Bean Goodness

Five hours later, the result is creamy red bean goodness. Knoff says cooking the red beans slowly for a long time is the key to the right consistency. “We don’t want something with chunks of vegetables,” adds the chef.

Knoff cooks red beans twice a week, batching them for future servings. Capella guesses they get about 150 servings per batch, or 20 quarts. The red beans are served with rice and a Patton’s hot sausage patty, though Capella noted they can be served with chicken or grilled shrimp, as one customer prefers. The final touch is a slice of Gendusa’s bread on the side.

You’ll Also Find Red Beans in the Big Easy Wrap

The red beans also find their way into the restaurant’s Big Easy Wrap – a combination of red beans, rice, fried chicken tenders, smoked sausage, provolone cheese, and an in-house “tiger” sauce.

New Orleans’ Favorite Comfort Food

Knoff, who has been the chef at the restaurant for just a few months, is originally from the Northeast. He had his first taste of red beans and rice in 2009, and liked it, noting he understands the local love for the dish. Comparing it to a favorite comfort food from his neck of the woods, he adds, “It’s kind of like eating mashed potatoes and gravy to me.”

After all, red beans and rice is comfort food that’s right at home in New Orleans.

Bienvenue, 467 Hickory Ave., Harahan; (504) 305-4792; bienvenueharahan.com; Hours: Mon.-Thus. 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; Fri. 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sat. 5 p.m.-8:30 p.m.; Sunday brunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

It started with a tortilla.

Then a pupusa, followed by a birria taco and ultimately a Central American restaurant with a full menu.

But first, that tortilla.

Mawi Tortillerias on January 8, 2024. Photo by Ryan Hodgson-Rigsbee rhrphoto.com

Expanding Their Tortilla Empire

Will Avelar started Mawi Tortilla with his father Carlos and brother Fernando in 2017 as a wholesale tortilla bakery.

During COVID-19, Mawi Tortilla business was down due to most restaurants’ reduced operations, so the company began making and selling pupusas (inspired by Carlos, who is from El Salvador) and then birria tacos, which went viral on Instagram.

“Since then, we realized this location would probably benefit more from doing retail food than just wholesale tortillas,” says Will. The production of tortillas is now in Kenner.

The Spotted Rooster Rice

One of the restaurant’s popular dishes is Gallo Pinto, which translates roughly as “spotted rooster.”

The restaurant likes to use Camellia Brand small red beans or small black beans to make the Costa Rican-style rice and beans dish.

A New Orleans native, Will spent time in Costa Rica, where his mother’s family lives. In Costa Rica, “black beans are a big part of their rice dish,” he states in a Camellia Beans video. “Most Costa Rican homes have a pot of Gallo Pinto and rice. It’s that much of a staple item that you always have it.”

Crafting the Gallo Pinto

The dish starts by boiling the beans. “You can soak them to speed up the process, but it’s not necessary,” says Will.

“From there, you take the cooked beans and strain the liquid, but keep it. Then in another pot — or once you’ve cleaned out the same pot — you sweat the aromatics like onion, bell pepper, garlic, and cilantro in olive oil or butter,” he says.

“Add uncooked rice, toasting it a little bit, then add the bean liquid to cook the rice, and add the cooked beans, stir to combine, and bring to a boil. Taste the liquid to ensure the seasoning is good,” he says.

“Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes.”

Gallo Pinto pops up as a special, sometimes as part of a Costa Rican-style breakfast served with eggs, cheese, some sort of protein, and plantains.

Red Beans Versatility

The restaurant also uses small red kidney beans to make refried beans and sopa de frijoles, a traditional bean soup, which is cooked with fried pork rinds and served with rice, boiled eggs, and avocado.

Another specialty that is more New Orleans in style, but with a Central American twist, is the restaurant’s version of red beans and rice, served on Mondays as a special.

It starts as traditional red beans and rice, prepared using Camellia Red Kidney beans and using the “trinity” (celery, onions, bell pepper), garlic and bay leaf. But it is a meatless version, made as a “way to cater to our guests who want a meatless option,” says Avelar.

A new addition are the sides of two pupusas served with curtido [pickled cabbage] and salsa, which “are two things you must have when eating pupusas,” says Avelar.

Freshly sliced avocado is also added, which may seem unusual. But there is a reason.

“My father always adds avocado to any beans he’s eating so I thought of putting that on our red beans and rice as something that our guests would like to try because it’s unique to the way he eats his beans.”

Avelar said he created this dish with the purpose of connecting both Louisiana and El Salvador on one plate.

“It represents traditions I identify with in my cooking and upbringing,” he says.

Blending Culinary Influences

If Will Avelar’s name sounds familiar, it’s because he has been involved in four of Chef Emeril Lagasse’s restaurants, working his way up through the ranks of Emeril’s, NOLA, Delmonico, and finally, as the opening chef for Meril. In addition to running Mawi Tortillas, he recently became the corporate chef for Hufft Marchand Hospitality.

“It’s the flavors that I’m familiar with, techniques I grew up learning in my career, but also incorporating that into the traditional foods that we have in Central America,” Will says of Mawi Tortilla’s dishes. He likes to experiment — crawfish pupusas, for example — but also keeps traditional favorites on the menu, sometimes adding a bit of Louisiana flair with Camellia Beans.

Mawi Tortillas, 5050 W. Esplanade, Metairie, mawinola.com, on Instagram, (504) 644.2624, Mon. – Sat. 9:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.

Mondays at Katie’s are pretty much like any other day of the week: the tables and bar are filled with moms, dads, uncles, aunts, maw maws and paw paws. You’ll likely find lifelong friends comparing notes about Saints’ games, soccer teammates from a nearby school, and co-workers – all gathered in what feels like a New Orleans culinary clubhouse.

But there’s one notable difference on Mondays: red beans and rice is on the menu.

And keeping an eye on it all is owner Scot Craig.

A Culinary Awakening in Gentilly

Craig discovered cooking as a boy growing up in Gentilly, finding his culinary awakening in the kitchens of his Creole neighbors.

He explains his interest this way: “We’d be out playing, I’d stop in the kitchens [of friends and neighbors] and ask, ‘What are you cooking there?’”

“I’d talk to them about it. I learned a lot from the Creole ladies while growing up in that neighborhood,” he says, crediting them with his red beans and rice recipe.

“I learned how to make it right,” he notes, admitting that in the process, he also found out how to make it wrong.

“It’s about getting that creamy texture that’s so important,” Craig says. And for that, he credits soaking Camellia Red Kidney Beans.

“I’ve tried to use other [company’s] red beans, and they just don’t cook the same,” he says. “Other beans are harder, and they don’t absorb water the same.”

Plus, Craig adds, “I never saw anything but Camellia beans in a Creole lady’s house.”

Meats Bring the Flavor

Craig shares that he makes his red beans and rice like he makes his greens —with a lot of meat.

“I like to use smoked sausage and pickled meats, sometimes I’ll add turkey necks or other meats, anything that will bring it flavor,” he says. “But most importantly, smoked ham hocks and chunks of ham.”
The red beans begin soaking on Saturday, with the cooking process starting on Sunday.

Craig — or Chef Joey Trippi — starts with the traditional trinity of chopped celery, bell pepper and onion and cooks it down in butter, then adds it to the soaked red beans. Next are the bay leaf, butter, water, and the meats.

“We let it cook down,” he says, with the red beans ready on Monday for the first lunch order.
In addition to rice, patrons can have red beans with a smoked and grilled sausage link or hot sausage patty, fried chicken (available for dinner only), fried or grilled pork chops, or Andouille sausage.

A Special Creation

There is one red beans and rice creation that Craig says came together after a number of cocktails: the red beans and rice po-boy.

“It’s freaking incredible,” he says about this once-in-a-blue-moon special.

“You put a layer of mayonnaise and ketchup on the bottom with a layer of cooked red beans,” he says. “Then you add a real crispy hot sausage. I like hot sausage. And then you finish it on top with a little bit of red beans with some rice. It’s killer.”

Katie’s Restaurant and Bar, 3701 Iberville St., katiesinmidcity.com; on Instagram; 504.488.6582. Hours: Mon.-Thus. 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

When an Iconic Restaurant Changes Hands

It isn’t easy to open a restaurant, so imagine what it’s like to buy an established New Orleans neighborhood eatery where the regulars expect their favorite dishes in an atmosphere that is the same as it was when they originally walked through the doors. Which may have been 50 years ago.

“It’s both very exciting and daunting,” said George DeCastro, who bought Liuzza’s on Bienville in fall 2022 with Erin Clark and two partners in Miami.

“I have the opportunity to step into an iconic New Orleans restaurant and serve food to diners who have been coming here for generations,” he said. “To carry that torch and still be a part of the fabric of New Orleans culture carries great responsibilities.” DeCastro is mainly in the kitchen/back of house, while Clark runs the front of house.

They are familiar with the city: Clark and DeCastro were part of the crew that opened Finnegan’s Easy in the French Quarter. Both relocated to New Orleans when they bought Liuzza’s business, building, and recipes.

Liuzza’s Keeps it Old School with its Red Beans and Rice

Among the original recipes was red beans and rice.

“I found out when I came to New Orleans that locals are very particular with the food products they know and love,” said DeCastro. “They are a very knowledgeable group when it comes to traditional cuisine.”

And, of course, there was no changing up the recipe when it came to using Camellia Red Kidney beans.

In keeping with the Liuzza’s red beans tradition, the beans are rinsed, not soaked. They are put in a large kettle to which assorted meats such as homemade tasso and smoked sausage are added, as well as the “trinity” (onion, green peppers and celery), Creole seasoning, garlic and other ingredients.

“We just keep on tasting it to see if it’s the cleanest consistency that we want,” DeCastro said. “It usually comes out the same every time.”

The red beans are made in a large batch, then frozen in portions which are taken out as needed.

“Once it goes into the freezer, all the flavors and everything that goes into it condenses,” DeCastro said.

He emphasized that when they heat up the red beans, they don’t microwave them, but put them in a small double boiler.

What the Future Holds: A Delicate Balance of the Old & the New

Many like to enjoy the red beans and rice alongside the restaurant’s signature 18 oz. goblets of frosty cold beers — or an Abita root beer. Other signature recipes include the Frenchuletta (Muffuletta on French bread) and shrimp and oyster beignets.

While committed to the restaurant’s traditional recipes, DeCastro said that he is also looking to “explore a lot of other Louisiana foods.” Sounds a lot like Vincent Liuzza, who founded the restaurant in 1947, and like his successors, blended Sicilian foods with Creole and Cajun flavors.

“I want to grow as a brand but walk the line that stays true to what Liuzza’s is to the local community,” said DeCastro. “Being a flag-bearer of a 70-year-old [plus] tradition is a great responsibility that so far, our guests have enjoyed.”

Liuzza’s Restaurant and Bar, 3636 Bienville St., New Orleans; liuzzas.com; Hours: Mon. 11 a.m. – 8 p.m., Tues. Closed; Weds. 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Thurs.-Sat.11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.

The Missing Dish

Their menu featured pulled pork, beef brisket, smoked turkey, rack of ribs, cracklings, bbq (baked) beans, and other barbecue favorites.

But something was missing.

“Red beans and rice,” said Evans, co-owner and chief barbecue tech.

The dish wasn’t on the menu because Blue Oak BBQ wasn’t open on Mondays, the traditional day to serve and eat red beans and rice.

So in 2020, when Evans and Moseley decided to open on Mondays, adding red beans and rice as a special was an easy decision.

“I’ve always loved red beans. I grew up eating them,” said Evans, a native New Orleanian.

Red Beans with a Barbecue Flair

Once they made the decision, the next question was how to make their dish stand out from others.

Instead of serving their red beans and rice with a traditional link of sausage or fried chicken or pork chop, the restaurant introduced smoked meats made in-house.

“We felt it was only natural to hold true to the tradition and put a little barbecue flair on the plate by adding some brisket and ribs,” said Moseley.

There is still sausage that comes with the dish, and it’s spicy green onion – the restaurant’s version of a “Texas hot link,” said Evans.

The temptation to add one — or all — of the three smoked meats to the red beans is often irresistible.

The red beans recipe was created by Evans, and his mother was the inspiration. “Red beans were in my mom’s repertoire. She also made black bean soup with Camellia black beans. It was always Camellia beans, all the time,” he said.

Surprise Ingredients: Pulled Pork & Pickle Juice

Evans’ red beans and rice recipe starts with the trinity (celery, bell pepper, onions) cooked down in pork fat. Then chicken stock is added. “We add more sausage and cook it down, then fold in the pulled pork, which gives it a nice texture,” said Evans.

That mixture is then poured into the red beans, which have soaked overnight, and it all cooks together into a creamy blend.

There are a few surprise ingredients. Cumin, chopped green onions, and pickle juice, the latter of which “just kind of gives it a little brightness and acidity,” said Evans.

The red beans and rice combo, which is only available on Mondays, took off, said Evans.

How red beans and rice ended up on the menu may seem like an evolution; now Evans claims, “It’s probably my favorite dish on the planet!”

Blue Oak BBQ, 900 N. Carrollton Ave., blueoakbbq.com, open 7 days, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Blue Oak BBQ, 900 N. Carrollton Ave., blueoakbbq.com, on Instagram; Hours: open 7 days, 11:00 a.m.- 9:00 p.m.

While in college at LSU, Devin Snow’s Monday crockpot stand-by called for Camellia red beans simmered with Manda smoked sausage, a couple of onions, and a ham hock. Though he still loves red beans & rice, he says, “I don’t cook anything anymore. I’m just eating everyone else’s food. And I’m completely content with that.”

With his signature “RB&R” Days, Devin is making a name for himself as a food influencer. And he’s building a pretty large social media following for what he calls an “underdog dish”.

“Nobody respected going out to eat for red beans. Everybody was like, I can just make them at home.”

But after seeking out and eating red beans & rice at a wide range of interesting and quirky takeout places, corner stores, and hot plate lunch spots, Devin is on a roll – recently reaching RB&R Day #160.

RB&R Day 160
Jackson, MS Experiment pic.twitter.com/TsAwjke5cG

— Hold The Mayo (@snowlikejonn) June 5, 2023

How It All Started

A lover of comedy and stand-up, Devin started a blog in June of 2019 based on homegrown New Orleans humor. Six months later, he quit his job as a car salesman, cashed in his 401K, and never looked back. His first video foray involved Facebook Live shows five nights a week; then the pandemic hit, and because so many people were at home on their computers, he got some traction. Stumbling on the idea of doing RB&R Days, Devin explains, “It’s not like the first one blew up. But I told myself, if I do this 100 Mondays in a row, it’s gonna be a hit.”

RB&R Days: One Monday at a Time

When asked how he picks the red beans & rice spots that he’ll visit, Devin claims, “I don’t even think about it till Monday morning. There’s no preparation whatsoever. Which makes it better and more authentic. I’ll go look at my followers’ messages or comments and whatever sounds the most interesting is where I’ll go. Nobody knows I’m coming, and I don’t want anybody to know I’m there.”

Devin doesn’t play favorites, either. He says it’s all about his genuine reaction to the experience and his own opinion. He explains it this way: “I’m not going to rank them; it’s unnecessary. That would just open up an argument. But some of the best places are the ones with the best experiences.”

He cites Queen’s Cuisine in Kenner, LA as a great example:

RB&R Day 106
Greatest Queen in the pic.twitter.com/DMiCjCgljL

— Hold The Mayo (@snowlikejonn) May 23, 2022

On his blog, Devin says, “First person you gonna see is the person who owns the place, Queen. Lol, wow what a vibe. Within seconds it feels like you’ve known her for years. Instant conversation and there is zero, I mean nothing not to like about this sweet woman.” 

Another noteworthy spot Devin appreciates is a bowling alley that packs folks in at lunchtime on Mondays for their red beans & rice. “Nothing but people over 70 years old – that was an experience,” he deadpans.

And then there are the inexpensive joints, where he’s indulged in huge plates of food for as little as $6-$8 per takeout container. “A lot of places are beat-up looking and don’t strike the eye as beautiful – those are beautiful to me.”

Finally, there are the places like Frady’s in the Bywater, where Devin does a little eating and a lot of neighborhood exploring:

RB&R Day 155
Frady’s One Stop Food Store (Bywater) pic.twitter.com/wWuR7FkstP

— Hold The Mayo (@snowlikejonn) May 1, 2023

What’s Next for Devin Snow

Devin now sells his own branded t-shirts and hats (a hugely successful side gig) and has racked up sponsors such as Camellia Beans, Abita, and Blue Plate Mayo. When asked what’s next, he says, “I’m 30 and will have to throw my ass up on a stage and do stand up at some point. It’s something that I know I’ll be able to do. Right now, I’m cool with what I’m doing.”

If variety is the spice of life, then Chicken’s Kitchen in Gretna could be considered one of its culinary epicenters. So much so that it was named to The New York Times “Restaurant List 2022: 50 Places In America We Are Most Excited About Right Now.”

On the Menu

The menu — colorfully written on a large blackboard on the wall — features daily specials Monday through Friday that include fried chicken, braised beef, half-stuffed Cornish hen, oxtails (the first Tuesday of the month), smothered turkey necks, Five-Star Mac (named for the five cheeses used for it), potato salad, seafood smothered okra, and candied yams, to name just a few. Other options include red beans, white beans, and black-eyed peas with rice dishes.

Then there are the multiple ways you can combine them: a fried pork chop with white beans, cabbage, and candied yams might be your preference, or perhaps red beans with fried chicken, Five-Star Mac, and honey cornbread is more your style.

Each combination offers a unique and delicious flavor profile. (Combine some white beans and rice with the candied yams. Trust us.)

And don’t forget to finish the meal with a sweet treat by Anointed Confections.

Take-Out Plate Lunches

The man behind this culinary cornucopia is restaurant owner Marlon Chukumerije — his nickname is Chicken, hence the restaurant’s name.

Chukumerije’s mother and grandmother taught him to cook, and in 2014, a friend asked him to cater a wedding. Out of this adventure grew a catering business, and when the opportunity arose to open a restaurant in September 2020, he took it.
The menu he created features New Orleans and southern-style dishes that work well as take-out plate lunches.

“The idea was to find things that hold well in the heat, things that could stay long and not
change the quality,” says Chukumerije.

“There are things I would love to add to the menu, but we just can’t,” he adds, stating certain pasta dishes and vegetables don’t work well for take-out, while others do.

Red Beans & Rice, Perfected

One dish he worked hard to perfect was the red beans and rice.

“When we opened, we made red beans four or five different ways,” he said. “It was trial and error.”

“And I landed on this version because I got the most consistent feedback from customers.”

The version Chukumerije and his crew hit on starts with Camellia Red Kidney beans soaked overnight.

Green onions, celery and parsley are added, then Tony Chachere’s, Italian seasoning, onion, garlic powder, and chicken bouillon powder, which he says amplifies the flavors.

When it came to pork, he worked hard to find the right cut and flavor.

“Certain people have pork issues,” he says, noting that ham seasoning, salt pork, and pickled pork (tips, tails, for example) were not popular.

The one ingredient everyone liked was smoked sausage. “That’s the only meat we put in it,” he says.

For the restaurant’s white beans dish, Chukumerije uses Camellia Navy Beans and the same cooking process and ingredients used for the red beans.

As for the blackeye peas, Chukumerije uses scraps from that day’s fried ribs to add flavor.

Red beans are traditionally served on Monday, blackeye peas on Tuesday, and white beans on Wednesday.

A Love of Green Onions

Another unexpected ingredient used in Chicken Kitchen’s bean & rice dishes is green onion. “Something I learned here that I think gives our beans a unique flavor, which most people don’t do, is we finish it off with lots of green onions,” he says. “Right when we are doing the cooking, while it’s still super hot, we put the chopped green onions in there and mix it.

“It elevates it to a whole different level,” he says.

Praise for Chicken’s Kitchen

What Chukumerije is doing is working based on the line of customers outside of the restaurant who know to get there early as food often sells out fast. And, of course, the restaurant’s recognition in the New York Times.

“It’s a gratifying achievement that wouldn’t even be possible without the community support we get on the daily. That’s more special to me,” he says.

Chicken’s Kitchen, 629 Derbigny St., Gretna; Mon.- Fri., 10:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m., chickens-kitchen.com; on Instagram.

When owner and chef Jeffrey Heard opened the doors to his restaurant on March 2, 2015, his wife made the red beans and rice.

“She had always cooked them for me at home,” Heard says. “So I let her cook them here.”

But when he entered the Krewe of Red Beans “Bean Madness” contest in 2017, he decided to take on the challenge himself. Working from the memory of his mother’s red beans and rice recipe, he made a batch and had his oldest brother do the taste-testing. His brother proclaimed them “marvelous.”

Heard’s red beans made it to the final eight contenders out of 64 in the competition, but in trying to make more batches, he wasn’t able to cook the beans long enough. “They didn’t have enough time to break down right,” he says, and they didn’t make it to the final four.

Despite that, Heard was hooked on making red beans and rice.

Precision: The Key to Heard’s Red Beans

The process for making everything he serves at the restaurant is precise — including the red beans and rice.

“What I do now is soak them in water overnight. Then, the next day, I cook them on a high fire for about eight hours,” he says.

“And then after that, I simmer them on a real low fire for about 12 hours. I don’t put any seasoning or anything in it. I’m just trying to get them broken down.”

Once they reach the consistency Heard likes, if he doesn’t need them right away, he separates the red beans into portions and puts them in the refrigerator or freezer. Heard then sautés onions, peppers, and pork sausage and puts that aside, divided into portions, as needed. His dry seasonings, including garlic and onion powder, are all ready in a Ziploc bag, again, divided into portions.

Most of the prep takes place on Saturdays, so when Mondays roll around, “I’ll just put it all in the pot, so with that process, it takes me about an hour to an hour and a half to finish cooking.”

His secret? Don’t rush the beans. “I found slow cooking them on that real low fire is what really will make them creamy.” His preferred bean is Camellia Red Kidney Beans. “It’s just something my mom always used. It was like it was a rule and the only kind we had in the house, actually,” he says.

From Front of House to Back of House

Heard was born and raised in New Orleans, the second oldest of six boys. He worked in the hospitality industry for more than 30 years, serving in a variety of front-of-house positions, including waiter, operations manager, and banquet captain at places such as Restaurant August and the Crowne Plaza/W Hotel/Le Méridien on Poydras Street.

Though Heard didn’t work in the kitchen during that time, he watched and learned from chefs such as Michael Gulotta, Michael Stoltzfus, Brian Landry, John Besh, Alon Shaya and Agnes Bellet. And he credits learning the importance of how to plate food so it looks appetizing to his time at Restaurant August.

While working at these establishments, he would often be asked where to find authentic New Orleans food – “I want to go where you eat,” people would say to him. No one knew better than he did, so when the opportunity came along to open his own restaurant, he took it.

A Restaurant of His Own

Heard’s family members are his main collaborators: son, Jeffrey Heard Jr. and daughters Tia’Nesha Heard-Dorset and Angel Heard.

The restaurant’s Audrey Mae’s Catering is named after his mom. Heard was catering before he opened the restaurant at the corner of Magnolia and Felicity streets, in a building with historic roots. Built by Johann Heinrich Keller of Keller Southern Soap Works, it housed the largest manufacturer of soap products in the South in the late 19th century, with products distributed to the eastern U.S., Mexico, and Central America. The front of the building still has the Keller name on it. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, it accommodated a food store and the restaurant’s dining area, but neither the food store nor the inside dining area have re-opened.

Heard Dat Kitchen’s menu is available for take-out or can be eaten outside at the picnic tables, but Heard is hoping the owner will soon re-open the building. He’d like to use the larger kitchen and offer inside dining again.

“It would be a perfect spot for coffee, as the neighborhood doesn’t have a coffee shop,” says Heard, who prefers to wear a t-shirt proclaiming, “Exceed Expectations,” a phrase based on Ephesians 3:20.

The red beans and rice do live up to the promise of the t-shirt’s expression; served with a choice of fish or chicken that’s blackened or fried, it is a popular menu item. (Heard points out the blackened chicken works well with the red beans.) Two other signature menu items include the Superdome — a blackened fish dish in a lobster cream sauce with fresh corn and crispy onion rings, and Bourbon Street Love — a baked macaroni dish topped with fried chicken and a crawfish cream sauce.

Heard Dat Kitchen is both a neighborhood spot and a place people seek out – for the food, the experience, and for Jeffrey Heard himself.

Says Chef Gulotta, “I worked with Jeffrey years ago when we had to execute massive private dinners together, and he was unflappable through countless high stress situations – and his knowledge and love of great wine is also unmatched. When I tried his food at Heard Dat Kitchen, he floored me again.”

“My biggest motto is, I tell people that I’m in the memory-making business,” says Heard.

Heard Dat Kitchen, 2520 Felicity St., (504) 510-4248, @_hearddat_ on Instagram, heardatkitchen.com. Hours: Mon. – Sat., 11 a.m.- 8 p.m.

Nestled in a restored 1920s-era train depot in downtown Covington, Lola is a place where you will run into your neighbors, co-workers, family and friends — anyone who has a hankering for what co-owner Chef Keith Frentz says is “simple Southern fare.”

That’s because for the past 17 years, Keith and his wife, co-owner Nealy Frentz, have hit on a comfy alchemy of food and atmosphere that has made Lola a success.

The duo, who both went to Johnson & Wales University culinary school in different cities, met just before Hurricane Katrina when they were sous chefs at Brennan’s. Keith was born and raised in Covington; Nealy is originally from California. 

The Lola Menu

The menu — featuring an assortment of Southern-inspired dishes with a focus on seafood — is what brings customers back. Another highlight is the restaurant’s charming set-up; it conjures up the small town-feel of Covington during the 19th and early 20th centuries, when it served as a transportation and commerce hub for the Northshore.

The brick-walled main dining room is part of the original depot and features a large painting of a pig by Simone Burke. (Keith says he won’t ever sell it, even though he has had offers.) Also on the walls are the daily specials – listed on a brown Kraft paper “poster.”

What’s fascinating is that the kitchen and an adjacent dining room are fashioned out of railroad cars. Of note is “The Doodlebug” – a Model 75 Gasoline Engine Driven Rail Car commissioned on Nov. 24, 1925 by the Columbus & Greenville Railway Company and built by the J.G. Brill Company. After years in service, it was retired in 1948 and went into private ownership, eventually moving to downtown Covington. Refurbished in 2017, the car’s exterior was painted the same green as that of New Orleans streetcars.

Red Beans and Rice, Made the Lola Way

Red beans and rice, which figures prominently as a Monday special, is one of Keith’s favorite things to make, though he admits gumbo is up there, too. (Both were big sellers for take-out during the COVID-19 pandemic.)

As it turns out, Keith didn’t grow up eating or even making red beans.

“I never experienced red beans until I was working at Brennan’s, and one of my old friends, cook Kenney Riley, taught me how to make them,” says Keith.

Riley instructed, “One pound of beans, one pound of butter, 10 pieces of bacon, and the trinity [onion, celery, bell pepper].” Keith remembered thinking that was a lot of butter for one pound of beans; but, after Riley added the sausage, Keith realized it was the best thing he had ever tasted. 

The red bean bug had bit, and Keith proceeded to develop the recipe he now uses at the restaurant.

Keith’s Secret Ingredients

Now, some may think that the butter would be the secret ingredient, but for Keith it is bacon fat. 

“I always cook bacon for my sandwiches, so I always have at least eight sheet pans of bacon made on Monday,” he says. “The excess bacon juice goes into the beans.”

Another must-have ingredient is Camellia Beans, which Keith says are the only ones he will use.

“I don’t soak them because they cook really fast,” says Keith. “They are going to reduce down and smash each other. Once I get them to a boil, I put them on low because unfortunately, I have burned a lot of red beans.”

Mondays at Lola

Keith’s Monday morning routine is this: “First thing I do when I arrive is put my pot of water on, then add the butter, all the dry seasonings such as paprika, salt and pepper, cayenne, dried parsley, garlic, and thyme, then red beans, and I let it boil for a while,” he says. “Next, I will add the trinity and smoked sausage. When the bacon is done, I will add the bacon fat.”

When completed, the red beans and rice is served with cornbread.

And on Tuesdays…

The red beans and rice often sells out on Mondays, but when it doesn’t, Keith will make red bean hummus or red bean succotash on Tuesdays. His red bean succotash is a variation on part of a dish that earned him the title of King of Louisiana Seafood in the 2012 Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off. The full award-winning dish was a cornmeal-dusted wild Des Allemands catfish with Camellia red bean & local crawfish succotash, braised collards, and house-made tartar sauce.

Has Keith ever used red beans in other dishes? Yep, in a red bean gumbo. “And it was good!” he exclaims.

Here’s hoping to find that dish on the Lola menu soon! But if not, red beans and rice will remain a well-seasoned favorite at Lola.

Lola, 517 N. New Hampshire St., Covington; (985) 892-4992; http://lola.kitchen/; on Instagram @lolacovington; Hours: Mon.- Fri. Lunch, Dinner Fri. and Sat.

When You Really Love Red Beans

How much does Saint John Chef Daren Porretto love red beans?

He has a tattoo of one on his finger.

For this New Orleans-born and-raised chef, the city and its food are his passions, and he shares them at the French Quarter restaurant. Through those passions, Saint John customers get a culinary awakening — a conversion, perhaps — of Southern and Louisiana food that goes beyond tradition.

The proof? The moment a waiter places the pork belly cassoulet down on a table, there is a pause: Take a photo, inhale the heavenly aroma, or just dive into the flavor? Most people do all three, as simultaneously as they can, when it comes to this brunch favorite.

A Cassoulet Made with Camellia Beans

Making the cassoulet is a two-day process that starts by soaking Camellia Great Northerns overnight. Then, it’s time to render the meat (Andouille sausage, tasso and ground pork belly), throw into chicken stock, and add vegetables including the trinity (onion, bell peppers, celery), plus garlic, bay leaves, salt and pepper. 
“All the usual suspects,” Chef Porretto says, cooked to the right balance, so the mixture is buttery and smooth.

Finally, the pork belly is braised in root beer and topped with a cornbread crust.

A combination of flavors, the cassoulet creates a historical connection between its French origins and Louisiana, with beans as the common denominator.

 And Porretto wouldn’t use anything other than Camellia Beans.

“I feel like I don’t have a choice to use anything else,” says Porretto jokingly.

Camellia Beans is what his grandmother relied on when the two of them cooked together. And when Porretto worked in New York City for a year, she made sure he was well-stocked. Her care packages included at least three different types – usually white beans, red beans, and one other.

“New Orleanians stick to our roots,” he says. “It’s like if you go to the grocery store, and there’s no Camellia Beans, you go to another store to find it. It’s something ingrained in my DNA.”

It’s that DNA — along with a dedication to Southern and Louisiana food — that Porretto and restaurant owner Eric Cook are bringing together in a modern, updated cuisine that never forgets its roots.

Hoppin’ John Oyster Salad

Another example of their culinary philosophy is the Hoppin’ John oyster salad, a fresh take on the New Year’s Day Southern tradition of serving cabbage or greens (symbolizing money, or dollar bills), with blackeye peas (symbolizing prosperity, or coins), and cornbread (symbolizing gold) – all with the goal of starting the new year with good luck.

Instead of cabbage, the salad features Bibb lettuce topped with crispy fried Gulf oysters. It is then ringed by a combination of crumbled bacon, chopped red peppers, and slow-cooked, smoky blackeye peas, “which bring a great flavor and texture to it,” says Porretto. Dressed with a green remoulade — not the traditional pinkish-hued version — it is a light, flavorful combination that melds Louisiana and Low Country traditions.

Red Beans and Rice

And what about the red beans and rice? The classic dish was added back to the menu — Mondays only, as per New Orleans’ custom — with Porretto putting just as much thought into it.

 However, he is keeping that favorite more traditional, as any New Orleans native would.

Saint John, 1117 Decatur St., (504) 581-8120, saintjohnnola.com, on Instagram; 
Hours: Brunch and dinner, Weds.-Mon.

It’s a bustling scene inside Mother’s Restaurant. Visitors simultaneously look around, taking in this old school New Orleans eatery, while perusing the menu and trying to make a decision about what to order. Should they get the restaurant’s Famous Ferdi Special, a combination of ham and roast beef “debris” with its juices unabashedly soaking into the po-boy bread and down the sides? Perhaps Jerry’s Jambalaya, named after the late owner Jerry Amato, or the signature red beans and rice. Regulars go straight to the always-in-motion serving/deli line to get their favorite dish. Tables are overflowing with Mother’s food and those who enjoy it, a testament to the enduring popularity of this restaurant.

Much of that has to do with brothers Jerry and John Amato, who bought the restaurant in 1986. And much has to do with the staff — such as Miss Pat, who has been there for more than 30 years and has done a little bit of everything.

It’s family. It’s New Orleans. It’s about the relationships between people, as well as with food.

A Recipe is Born
It was Jerry – with culinary training from previous hospitality jobs, studies at Delgado Community College and The Culinary Institute of America – who had an innate sense of what tasted good and which flavors worked together. He was always able to take traditional New Orleans dishes and elevate them.

“Jerry really brought a culinary take on it,” says Charles Pizzo, who does public relations and social media marketing for the restaurant, about the food at Mother’s.

An example is the red beans and rice.

The origin of the red beans and rice recipe at Mother’s starts with the founders, Simon and Mary “Mother” Landry, who opened the business in 1938 on Poydras Street. It was there where they fed the neighborhood’s longshoremen, warehouse workers, and others looking for po-boys and hearty New Orleans dishes.

Years later, Chef Odie Mae Peters refined the red beans and rice recipe.

“She tweaked the recipe a little bit,” says Pizzo. “She added more ham because Mother’s cooks its own ham.”

When Jerry arrived on the scene, he saw all the leftover ham fat as the result of trimming, and realized it could be used in the red beans, among other dishes.

“It is a secret ingredient to a lot of Mother’s old-time dishes,” shares Pizzo.

Chef Roland Swazy agrees: “Though it’s no longer fashionable, it’s fat that makes the red beans taste good. And Mother’s happens to have a lot of ham trimmings available.”

After the ham fat is rendered, then the vegetables — onions, green onions, bell peppers and garlic — for the red beans are cooked in it.

Mother’s ham is cooked at the restaurant. “We only use Chisesi Brothers ham,” says Alex Salas, daytime manager, who has been at the restaurant for 16 years.

In addition to cooking the vegetables in the rendered ham fat, the ham bones, which are cut in half, are boiled with the red beans.

Pizzo notes that the ham is not salted. The flavor is enhanced by Mother’s secret sauce, a glaze that covers the ham when it is cooked. Ham chunks are also used in the red beans recipe, as is smoked sausage from Creole Country that is made to Mother’s specifications.

Mother’s uses Camellia Red Kidney Beans. The beans are not soaked, but instead, they’re put through a few rinses to help release the starches. (The restaurant also has specialized equipment so it can cook the beans low and slow at a controlled rate.)

The beans are then boiled in half chicken stock and half beef stock, a.k.a. “debris gravy.” The stocks are made in-house.

The Legacy Continues
Chef Swazy has been put in charge of carrying on the restaurant’s culinary traditions. Swazy started as a dishwasher in 1987 and worked his way up to become head chef, learning what made Mother’s so special along the way.

“Chef Jerry Amato, who mentored me, was big on the need for consistency. Regulars come to Mother’s Restaurant year after year, and they want and expect everything to taste the same,” says Swazy. “While some restaurants try to be cutting edge, Mother’s aims to be traditional. We’ve seen adult children bring their elderly parents in to eat,” he added. “These are folks who worked in what were once office buildings along Poydras Street, such as the Lykes Building or One Shell Square. They tear up and get emotional, telling us ‘Your food tastes exactly like I remembered it.’”

And that’s why Mother’s Restaurant remains beloved.

Mother’s Restaurant, 401 Poydras Street, mothersrestaurant.net, (504) 523-9656. Hours: 7 days 7 a.m.-10 p.m.

Arkesha Baquet is a busy woman. It’s just a half-hour before opening at Li’l Dizzy’s in Tremé, and menus must be reviewed, supply deliveries confirmed, and she needs to peek in the kitchen to check on the Creole-Soul food favorites this beloved eatery is famous for.

If a restaurant can embody a city’s culinary history, traditions, and heart — as well as its past, present and future — then Li’l Dizzy’s is it.

Arkesha, and her husband Wayne Baquet Jr., are second-generation owners of the restaurant founded by Wayne’s father, Wayne Baquet Sr., in 2004.

The Baquets and Their Long-Standing Culinary Legacy
The family has a long, rich culinary legacy in New Orleans. Before Li’l Dizzy’s, there was Zachary’s on Oak Street, and before that, Eddie’s in the Seventh Ward, run by Wayne Sr.’s father, Eddie Baquet Sr. Eddie learned the business working for his aunt and uncle, Ada Baquet Gross and Paul Gross, at their restaurant, Paul Gross Chicken Coop. The Chicken Coop opened in the mid-1940s and was among the first Black-owned restaurants in the city.

Li’l Dizzy’s is the last of the Baquet family restaurants that’s still in operation today, and Arkesha and Wayne Jr. took it over in February 2021, after Wayne Sr. retired during the pandemic. (Those who are curious will appreciate this tidbit: the café was named after Wayne Sr.’s grandson Zachary, who played the trumpet at St. Augustine High School and was nicknamed Li’l Dizzy after famous trumpeter, Dizzy Gillespie.) Says Arkesha, “It’s a family business where a lot of people like to come with their families.”

Some Things Have Changed, While Others Have Stayed the Same
With Arkesha and Wayne Jr. at the helm, only a few things have changed: the restaurant just serves lunch, the buffet has been removed, and service is now tableside and take-out. Food is served in take-out containers for the ease of both customers and staff.

What hasn’t changed are the recipes. Those have been part of the Baquet family lore for generations. Wayne Sr.’s wife, Janet Jourdain Baquet, created the recipes. A few are by his mother, Myrtle Romano Baquet.

The red and white bean dishes, credited to Janet, are legendary, and the recipes can be found in “The Baquet Family Cookbook”.

The two recipes are the same, except for the beans used, but as Arkesha learned early on, the white beans better be Camellia’s Great Northern beans – and not lima beans.

“People will have a fit,” says Arkesha. “Because, I’m telling you, when we first opened up (post-pandemic), and we started selling white beans, the question almost every customer asked was, ‘What kind of white beans are these?’ They did not want those lima beans.”

Arkesha was asked this question so many times, that she even called Wayne Sr. about it.

“He said, ‘If you give them something else, they’re not going to be happy,’” says Arkesha.

Soaking the Beans and Secret Ingredients
Some additional things that haven’t changed are the way the red and white bean dishes are made — using Camellia Beans — and soaking the beans overnight.

“My mother said that it’s sacrilegious not to soak your beans,” Arkesha says. “I don’t know how you would get away with them being good. That’s what would scare me; are they going to be hard?”

One ingredient that gives the bean dishes a special kick is the notable hot sausage the Baquets make in-house. The hot sausage can also be served alongside the beans, or customers can choose options like smoked sausage or fried chicken.

The red beans are served only on Mondays and usually sell out, while the white beans are served only on Tuesdays, and are just as popular.

Customers can thank head chef John Cannon (who some may know for playing the tuba in the Stooges Brass Band) and lead cook Lawrence Miller: Cannon makes the red beans, and Miller makes the white beans.

Li’l Dizzy’s Third Generation
Li’l Dizzy’s third generation includes Arkesha and Wayne Jr.’s children, Jene and Jace, who can be found helping out on Saturdays. Wayne Jr., who is the president of a wholesale company, is there, as well.

“We’re all here on Saturdays,” says Arkesha.

And they’re dedicated to keeping the Baquet culinary legacy alive.

Li’l Dizzy’s, 1500 Esplanade Ave., lildizzyscafe.net; on Instagram; (504) 766-8687; Mon-Sat. 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Opening During the Pandemic

Opening a restaurant is always a risk, and Allison and Glenn Charles took on an even greater one when opening Nice Guys in June 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic.

But the duo – natives of New Orleans – had a dream, a plan, and were determined to move forward.

They haven’t looked back.

The restaurant took off, so much so that the Charleses are in the process of expanding Nice Guys into a former Japanese restaurant that was next door and renovating a Canal Street space as a second location.

The Secrets to Their Success

What could be the restaurant’s secrets to success? The Charleses’ savvy business sense: they took a long-empty building on Earhart Boulevard and renovated it into a place that is welcoming and casually chic.

The not-so-secret-secrets are Chef Fred Andrews and the menu, featuring classic yet innovative dishes that New Orleanians know and love. The restaurant’s tagline is “New Orleans food with a twist!”

A great example would be the red beans and rice.

Andrews boils smoked turkey legs in a seafood boil, such as crab, before adding them to Camellia Red Kidney Beans — which he doesn’t soak — during the cooking process.

He then adds the “trinity” — onion, celery, bell pepper — plus garlic, red pepper, salt, pepper, and pickled ham, and a “whole list of secret ingredients,” he says.

Andrews cooks the red beans and rice the day before serving, so the flavors are enhanced overnight.

The restaurant serves red beans and rice on Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, and “we always sell out each day,” says Glenn Charles. “People love it, and I think it’s because of the smoked turkey meat that we use.” (And whatever the secret ingredients are!)

An Original Take on Traditional Dishes

What else do the restaurant’s customers love? The menu’s original takes on traditional dishes. Shrimp and grits is now SLG (shrimp, lobster, and grits) and French fries are Earhart Attack Fries – a combination of marinated chicken, hot sausage, smoked sausage, bacon, jalapeños, and seasoned fries topped with crawfish cheese sauce and a fried egg. And then there are chargrilled oyster options, including the Oysters Rockefeller version.

Even snowballs get a special twist with little bottles of alcohol flipped into the icy mixture, while daiquiris get their own enhancements of fruit and more.

Allison Charles points out that the Wednesday special of the seafood hot box features a combination of seafood rice with potatoes, sausage, and corn boiled in crab boil, and is finished with Nice Guys’ garlic butter and the seafood of your choice (though some people like to add turkey legs).

Nice Guys Finish First

It’s no wonder that online reviews for the restaurant are raves and often include kudos to the wait staff.

About their success, Allison Charles says, “We were blessed, really blessed.”

It’s no longer a secret that Nice Guys do finish first.

Nice Guys Nola, 7910 Earhart Blvd. NOLA 70125, (504) 302-2404, https://www.niceguysnola.com/

Keeping New Orleanians Well Fed Since WW II
Leni’s Cafe is like going home, a place where you will find comfort food just like what your mom or grandmother — and let’s not forget dad and grandfather — made.

From a grilled cheese to a cheeseburger, omelet to egg sandwich, and red beans to white beans, this Baronne Street diner’s plate breakfasts and lunches have been keeping New Orleanians well fed since at least World War II.

Since 1978, the Warehouse District restaurant has been owned by Pete Patselikos.

He is, however, not Leni. That would be a previous owner (circa early 1960s), Leni Kampitsis; Leni is short for Eleni, a Greek name, and Greece is the country from which Patselikos hails.

“After the purchase, I continued what she had created,” says Patselikos, talking about the menu, which at its heart is American Greek diner food with New Orleans dishes.

That includes red and white beans.

The Secrets to Leni’s Red Beans
Patselikos claims there is no real secret to his red beans — “cook the red beans, put in the right seasoning” — but as you talk to him more, a few key elements pop out.

“We don’t soak the red beans,” he says, adding that people often soak them because of the quality. That’s not an issue at Leni’s because the restaurant uses Camellia Beans.

“Start by putting the beans in cold water, let them boil,” says Patselikos, “then put in the seasonings including pepper and celery, as well as sausage and ham.”

And don’t forget to add tomato paste to give it some color, Patselikos advises, sharing that butter is also added.

Only on Mondays
This process starts sometime between 5:30 – 6 am, and the red beans are done by 9:30 am, when they are creamy.

“We make them only on Mondays,” says Patselikos.

“Very traditional,” Patselikos’ wife Despina Patselikos says, referring to the New Orleans’ custom of making red beans and rice on Mondays. The origins of the Monday tradition can be traced back about 100 years to when women would simmer the beans on a stove during the day while they did the wash.

Customers can get the red beans and rice as is or with “Whatever you want that’s on the menu … it’s usually with smoked sausage. Some order a pork chop. A lot of people like to have it with fried shrimp,” says Patselikos.

#WhiteBeanWednesday
Then there is Leni’s white beans and rice, only served on Wednesdays. Instead of using Great Northern Beans, the restaurant uses Camellia’s Large Limas.

Why?

“That’s what they were making 45 years ago,” says Patselikos, who says he is continuing the legacy of the previous owners, such as Leni.

Classic & Time-Tested
And for a long time, Greeks have owned the restaurant. Before the current owners, there were Pete G. Michailakis and Gus Michailakis during the late 1960s and 1970s (they were either the same person or related to each other), and prior to that, Leni Kampitsis. A newspaper article from 1941 shows Margaret Wellbat — who may or may not have been Greek — owned the restaurant and that she was fleeced out of $15 by a Robert E. Byrd pretending to be in the army.

During the 1920s, the space was home to Monarch Sheet Metal Works and around World War I, it housed Murray Welding and Metal Works.

Now in 2022, there is no denying that when a customer walks into Leni’s Cafe, they will be served time-tested classic New Orleans dishes — such as red beans or white beans and rice — Leni’s style.

Leni’s Café, 741 Baronne St., 504.523.0069; Hours, Mon.-Fri. 6 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.

NOTE: As of 10/2024, Mahoney’s is under new ownership and doesn’t serve red or white bean dishes and the French Quarter location ​is now closed​.

Mahony’s Po-Boys & Seafood’s Casey Levy had just received an urgent text from his staff at the French Quarter location. It wasn’t about the air-conditioning acting up or a delivery that hadn’t shown up yet. Nope – his staff wanted to know how soon he was going to bring the white beans over. White beans and rice — they are periodically on the menu as a special — are a favorite for staff and customers at Mahony’s.

Quality and consistency on the menu
For both the red bean and white bean dishes at Mahony’s, that meant using Camellia Beans.
“The quality and consistency achieved from about a century of maintaining those standards – how could we not want to use a local brand that lives that?” said Levy.

For every white bean there is a season
The white bean specials — Mahony’s uses Camellia Bean’s Great Northern variety — only happen about six months a year, divided somewhat by seasons. During the fall and winter months, that version is “looser, more old school style,” and is served with griddled shrimp with house seasoning that adds sweetness to it. The creamier version usually comes out during Hogs for the Cause, a culinary benefit in late March, and like the festival, is pork-centric.

Red beans: always on the menu
The red beans, which are always on the menu, are also made creamy. For that dish Levy “went to the drawing board … back to basics of what I learned early on in my family’s restaurants …. red beans old school, let the ingredients talk to themselves and figure out how they will handshake together.”

But instead of soaking the beans overnight using cold water, Levy said “we use hot water and add the smoked ham hock right away, with soaking only needed for five hours.”

After that, the smoked ham hock is removed, the beans are rinsed off quickly, then put back into the pot. “The absorbing of the smoky water into the beans gives them a different ‘bite’ when eating the beans. Lets you have that porky goodness without all the heavy oils needed,” said Levy.

Always cook the garlic in bacon fat
“Add your normal trinity, then garlic rendered in bacon fat,” said Levy, “a bay leaf and a little salt and pepper. We don’t add much seasoning at all.” They let the mixture simmer for a bit with the bay leaves and spices, then add in thin-sliced andouille sausage. “This will cook into the beans and give them that ‘lil extra flex,” says Levy.

Near the end of the cooking, when the red beans are creamy, a dab of Tabasco sauce is mixed in, before it is served with popcorn rice, smoked sausage and jalapeno butter cornbread. Some customers opt to have fried chicken with it.

Keeping it old school
“Like with many restaurants in Louisiana, the varying ways that they cook their beans lends to a great sampling of old school and newer flavors that can exist in the ‘kitchen sink’ cooking of the red and white beans world,” says Levy. “I like to think that ours has a taste and ‘feel’ that lets people remember a simpler way of cooking them and create that simmering of memory that made them fall in love with red beans in the first place.”

Mahony’s Po-Boys & Seafood, 3454 Magazine St., (504) 899-3374; 901 Iberville St., (504) 717-2422, mahonyspoboys.com

It’s just about 11:45 a.m., and Hurst Restaurant and Seafood already has people walking in. “Hey Carolyn; hey sweetheart,” Lisa Hurst says with a comforting familiarity to the two customers. Lanell Lumar, who has worked at the restaurant for nine years, joins in with “How you doing Bruce,” and already knows he is picking up his standard order of a hot sausage po-boy. It’s this bonhomie combined with the homemade cuisine that brings happy customers back time and time again.

Just a little thing in Kenner

“It was really just a little thing they had back when they started,” says Keenan Hurst about his grandparents, Katherine and LJ Hurst. In 1939, they founded LJ’s Restaurant and Lounge in Kenner, near where the restaurant is now. “They were selling liquor and plate food, and then it just picked up,” says Keenan. The restaurant changed its name to Hurst Chicken Shack in 1946, and then evolved into Hurst’s Restaurant and Seafood at its current location on Airline Drive, near Williams Boulevard and the Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport.

Keepers of the Culinary Flame

Keenan joined the restaurant in 1998, and his sister Lisa, who runs the front of house, has been there slightly longer – 27 years. The duo runs the restaurant for their parents, Marilyn and Felton Hurst Sr., who will pop in occasionally. Felton received the Southern Foodways Alliance’s 2019 Ruth Fertel Keeper of the Flame Award, given to an “unsung hero or heroine, a foodways tradition bearer of note,” says the alliance website.

Red beans the way you like it

The restaurant’s most popular dish is red beans and rice. “We make our red beans and rice the same way she cooked it,” says Keenan, talking about his grandmother. And like his grandmother before him, Keenan uses Camellia Beans, continuing an 83-year family tradition. Lisa adds, “Camellia is all we’ve ever done. It would be a waste of time to use anything else.” The restaurant serves red beans every day of the week, with an addition of Camellia white beans on Thursdays only.

Lisa says she has customers who come in Tuesday through Friday to just eat the red beans and rice. The regulars, who include a few “who have been around since my grandmother,” says Keenan, like to customize what they want based on what is served with it each day, or what the daily special is.

For example, some just want the red beans, no rice, while others want the traditional combination. Or, the red beans (with or without rice) can be served with fried catfish (the most popular request), smothered or fried chicken, fried or smothered pork chops, fried sausage, even fried shrimp, and smothered barbecue ribs. Keenan said some customers even want the red beans but with the rice covered with whatever gravy was made that day.

To soak or not to soak

Keenan and his crew cook 16 pounds of red beans each day. He uses the trinity — celery, onions and bell pepper — and sautés with “our seasoning and some bacon grease.” He then adds pickled pork rib tips and tails. What he doesn’t do is soak the red beans. “We never did,” Keenan says.

Soaked or not, the red beans at Hurst Restaurant are not to be missed!

Hurst Restaurant and Seafood, 2152 Airline Dr., Kenner, (504) 467-1370. Hours: Tues.-Thurs., 11 a.m.- 6 p.m., Fri. and Sat., 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Cash only.

Where everyone knows your name
Café 615, Home of the Da Wabbit restaurant, with its iconic, vintage Bugs Bunny themed neon sign, began as a drive-in restaurant in 1948. Today it continues to be the place Westbankers (and others in the know) go for great New Orleans food. On a typical Monday, which is red beans and rice day, of course, it’s packed with diners. The waitresses are in nonstop motion and seem to know everyone by their first name. This familial feeling – not to mention the restaurant’s famed red beans – brings the neighborhood here, and that’s how owners Donna and Eric Savoie like it.

A restaurant history in neon
The Savoies bought this Gretna landmark in 2004 and renamed it Café 615, Home of Da Wabbit, keeping a link to its previous owner, “Da Wabbit” Licciardi, who won the building in a card game in 1946. Before Licciardi owned it, the business was a drive-up diner and bar called Kerner’s, which was also known as a place to gamble. Today, this old-school New Orleans tradition and the food keep bringing people back. “That’s how our business has grown – by just word of mouth or just locals,” says Dawn.

A red beans recipe for 300…and counting
When Eric recounts their red beans and rice recipe, he thinks in bulk – he says they serve about 300 portions on Mondays for lunch and dinner. He constructs his dish in steps: “We start with 50 pounds of dry beans. Add around 10 to 12 large bay leaves, then add two cups of liquid smoke and eight large smoked ham hocks. We boil it until the beans are soft, then add four cups of chopped garlic and 35 pounds of smoked sausage cut in quarters. We cook that until the garlic is soft, then add two pounds of non-salted butter. Then let it cook for two to three hours.”

Two pounds of butter – yes indeed!
The butter, he says, makes the mixture creamy. Eric then adds three or four stalks of celery chopped, 15 bell peppers, and 25 large onions, all chopped, which are all cooked down. “You don’t cook it until you can’t see the seasoning, because you still want to see the seasoning. We just cook it until it’s translucent, so it’s soft, but visible, and then we add salt.” The dish is completed with a side of a pork chop or smoked sausage.

Red beans, white beans… but always Camellia Beans
The only beans Eric will use, which also include the Thursday special of white beans and rice, are Camellia Beans. “It’s a family tradition,” said Eric, to use the beans. And it’s one that can’t be messed with. It’s staple and most people that come in are getting the red beans,” Dawn notes. “It’s a New Orleans thing.”

Pork chop or smothered rabbit on the side
For the white beans and rice – which can be ordered with pork chop or smothered rabbit (not the “wascally” kind) – Eric uses a different cooking technique: “We boil navy beans in plain water until they are soft, then we add regular onions, green onions, pickled meat, salt and pepper to taste. We check it until the pickled meat is tender and the beans are soft and creamy. Way easier than the red beans!”

Café 615, Home of Da Wabbit, 615 Kepler St., Gretna, 504-365-1225, cafe615.com

Edgar Chase IV has fond memories of red beans and rice, starting from when he was a small child. “In New Orleans, it is your Monday night meal. It’s also Carnival — going out to enjoy the parades and have some red beans and rice,” explains Chase.

He learned how to make the dish from his grandmother, Leah Chase, also known as the Queen of Creole Cuisine, whose culinary skills brought people from across the globe to Dooky Chase’s Restaurant in New Orleans – and made them fans for life. Leah Chase started in the family business after she married Dooky Chase, Jr. in 1946, and her culinary prowess was never short on admirers. The list includes Presidents Barack Obama and George W. Bush and musicians Duke Ellington, Ray Charles, Jay-Z and Beyoncé, to name just a few. In fact, the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History in Washington, DC celebrates her life and legacy with an exhibit featuring artifacts like her cooking pot, restaurant menu, and one of her iconic bright pink chef’s jackets. And there was even a Disney movie that drew inspiration from her true story: The Princess and the Frog.

Let that bean work!

Edgar Chase IV took over when Chef Leah passed away in 2019, and he’s honored to carry on her legacy. “Growing up, everyone [in the family] worked in the restaurant,” said Chase, who started out washing dishes and busing tables at around 14 years old. Chase added, “I always wanted to hang in the back of the kitchen.” He’d watch his grandmother, then go home and re-create a dish from the restaurant, then bring it in for her to taste. “Her palate was so amazing, she picked up any misstep,” Chase said. “She would say ‘You need more of this … cook longer…’ and whatever she said, it came out better.” Among those dishes was red beans and rice. “We start with the smoked ham shank and smoked sausage, add salt, pepper and thyme and really just cook slowly to let that bean work,” he said, “then we finish with black pepper and vegetable oil to cream them up.”

The beans are going to speak for themselves.

“When you are cooking with Camellia Red Beans,” said Chase, “you are starting with quality. And you don’t have to do too much to red beans and rice to make it shine.” Chase is among those in the kitchen making the dish, including his cousin Cleo Robinson and Mister Bynah — better known as “Mister B” — who are making sure the red beans and rice are ready when the restaurant opens. Robinson is also the cook for the restaurant’s famed fried chicken, which is served with red beans and rice. Other dishes that lure in diners are the shrimp Clemenceau, stewed chicken, crawfish étouffée, Creole gumbo and Leah Chase’s famous gumbo z’herbes, a dish traditionally served for the Catholic observance of Holy Thursday. 

More than the sum of its food.

Leah and Dooky made sure that the restaurant was always more than just a place to eat; it was also a safe community gathering spot during segregation, and as such it played an integral role in the Civil Rights movement. In honor of this history, it was recently placed on the state’s Civil Rights Trail. Dooky Chase’s Restaurant continues to stay its course in the community as a culinary icon, a gathering place,  a way of life – and a celebration of New Orleans.

Written by Sue Strachan

To understand how important the Fiorella family has been to the food culture of New Orleans, just ask the folks who line up early at Fiorella’s Cafe in Gentilly, waiting for the doors to open. They wait for that hot and crunchy, award-winning fried chicken that is perfectly seasoned down to the bone. Some are there for the wide variety of po-boys on the menu. And many are there early on Mondays for first dibs on the hearty, smoky Monday red beans and rice before they sell out.

Family Recipes from a French Quarter Restaurant

Owners Kelly and Calcie Fiorella are carrying on a family tradition, with family recipes, based on the original Fiorella’s Restaurant on Decatur Street in the New Orleans French Quarter, which was operated by their dad, CJ Fiorella, until he closed it 1999. As that restaurant’s origin story goes, CJ was a New Orleans grocer of Sicilian descent who just wanted a good cup of coffee. Every day CJ would make his way to the French Market to buy fresh produce. After taking care of business, he would stop in the Market Place Restaurant and purchase a coffee. One day in 1984, the restaurant’s owner, Anthony Bianca, who knew CJ and his family and their love of cooking, approached him and offered to sell him the restaurant. It took a bit of pushing from a friend, but CJ finally accepted, and Fiorella’s was born.
CJ renamed it Fiorella’s Cafe and brought a large amount of the family’s own recipes to the restaurant. Not completely satisfied with the menu, he began to walk around the French Quarter and look at the different menus to see what others were doing. Since this was a family style neighborhood spot, he wanted to make sure he offered red beans and rice on Mondays, served butter beans another day, and stayed true to a typical New Orleans menu – but with a Fiorella spin.
“When my brother and I decided to reopen the family restaurant here in Gentilly, I said to him, I’m the one doing all of the cooking,” said Kelly Fiorella. He was not only excited to be back in the kitchen but also to bring back the original family recipes, including the famous fried chicken (they go through about 80 to 100 pounds of it per day).

How do you red bean, Fiorella’s?

Fiorellas Cafe in Gentilly on June 14, 2021.

One plate you will only find on Monday is red beans and rice – a recipe that was handed down from Kelly’s grandmother. “It was a tradition, and it was always with Camellia beans,” he said. “There were always little bags of Camellia beans in the pantry,” he said. “She also had stacks of Camellia white beans, red beans, navy and black-eyed peas. I can remember always seeing that little Camellia logo.”
On a typical Monday, Fiorella’s goes through about 10 to 12 pounds of Camellia red beans, according to Kelly. It’s all made fresh Monday morning and usually sells out by mid-afternoon. And when it’s gone for the day, it’s gone. Fiorella’s red beans recipe is a hearty one. You will find the hint of bacon with the onions, bell peppers, and garlic. They add ham, pork shoulder, and andouille sausage. The key to a good pot of beans, Kelly says, is to cook them low and slow.

Fiorella’s Weekday Specials – A Schedule to Live By

Kelly also uses Camellia’s large lima beans for the Thursday special of butter beans and rice. “I love the butter beans,” he said. “They’ve got so much flavor to them.” Other weekday specials include meatloaf on Tuesdays, Italian sausage and shells on Wednesday, and shrimp Creole on Fridays. The menu also includes favorite family classics like meatballs and spaghetti, veal parmesan, hamburger steak, fried seafood, a variety of po-boys, and of course, the fried chicken. In both 2016 and 2017, Kelly and Calcie earned the “best fried chicken” award at the National Fried Chicken Festival.

“It’s all family recipes,” said Kelly. “The red beans is a family recipe handed down.”

Fiorellas Cafe in Gentilly on June 14, 2021.

Kelly’s love of cooking was sparked early on, when visiting his grandmother. “Every time you walked into that woman’s house, it smelled like she was cooking a pot of red gravy or something,” he said. “That’s my grandmother’s meatballs that we use with the spaghetti. She taught us her recipes.”
The history of those who came before him is important to Kelly. Black and white photographs of relatives decorate the walls and serve as reminders of the legacy he wants to continue and build upon. The building itself has historical importance, too. The Fiorellas have had a longtime friendship with the Bologna family that formerly operated Teddy’s Grill at this location. To pay homage to that friendship and what the restaurant meant to the Gentilly neighborhood, two black plastic bull heads from Teddy’s Grill watch over the dining room. “We always just wanted to stay true to what is tradition in New Orleans,” Kelly added.

Written by Eric Olsson

Unfortunately, due to losses from Hurricane Ida in 2021, Dunbar’s Creole Cuisine is now officially closed after serving soul food to generations of New Orleanians.

Since Celestine Dunbar was a child, Camellia beans have been a part of her life in one way or another. “I can see my mother right now using one of those little packs of Camellia beans,” said Dunbar. “I can’t remember her ever not using them. They were just a part of our family.”

Cooking for her family is how Dunbar gained the confidence to open Dunbar’s Creole Cooking on Freret Street in 1986. “There were seven children, and it was their job to get up in the morning and make breakfast for the family. Then, they would turn around and start making lunch. I helped out and cooked a lot.” 

In the beginning, Dunbar’s offered deli sandwiches in keeping with the deli business she’d taken over at that location, but eventually she began to cook hot meals at her house and bring them in to sell. Many of the recipes were ones that her parents and grandmother taught her to make. Each day she would bring in a different special. Monday was red beans and rice. Tuesday was cabbage and barbecue chicken. Wednesday was meatballs and spaghetti. Many of these specials are still served to this day, and all of them are the same family recipes.

Celestine Dunbar never stopped cooking

For almost 20 years, Dunbar’s Creole Cooking was a fixture on Freret Street, but that all ended in 2005 after she lost the restaurant to the floodwaters from Hurricane Katrina and the fight with insurance companies that followed. To keep the Dunbar’s name out there, she went back to her roots of cooking in her own home kitchen and selling the food elsewhere. Her first stop was the food court at the Loyola University College of Law in New Orleans. After five years of serving students Uptown, she went on to deliver hot pre-plated meals to the workers on lunch at the Chalmette refinery.

This allowed Dunbar time to save up and purchase a new location, and she found that location in 2017 at 7834 Earhart Boulevard in New Orleans. Though the name of the restaurant changed to Dunbar’s Creole Cuisine, everything else stayed the same when they moved into the bigger location. Longtime friend and chef, Frank Jones, rejoined her as head of the kitchen. “He knows all of the recipes,” Dunbar said about Jones, who has been with her for over 30 years. “Frank does it all.”

“All they want is Camellia beans” 

As lunchtime hits, locals come out for the red beans and rice. “We sell them every day,” Dunbar said. “They’ll buy the red beans and rice before they’ll buy anything else.” She admits that over 60% of sales are for the red beans with fried chicken. On most days they go through about 12 pounds of Camellia red beans and up to 25 pounds a day during Carnival season leading up to Mardi Gras.

The recipe for the beans has been the same since the beginning. “We start with the trinity (white onions, green bell pepper, and celery) along with a lot of water,” Dunbar stated. “Then, you boil the trinity with garlic, green onions, granulated garlic, and a little parsley until the vegetables have become soft. You add your meat and seasoning (a special blend of black pepper and cayenne pepper) when the beans are about 90% done. This gives it it’s flavor.”

There are two tricks she offers for making the beans nice and creamy. The first trick is to add vegetable oil in the beginning. Dunbar says that by doing this, it will not only prevent the beans from boiling over and ruining the seasonings but will also help make the beans creamy. The other trick, or secret she learned from her mother all those years before, is to use Camellia brand red beans. “Camellia brand beans are just the best red beans there is. They are pink, fresh, and you just always get a beautiful red bean.”

Giving back to the community

Like many restaurants throughout New Orleans, Dunbar’s Creole Cuisine worked with the Chef’s Brigade NOLA, a united coalition of restaurants and chefs working together to offer food to those in need during the COVID pandemic, including front line responders, and healthcare workers. Dunbar said that they use Camellia brand lima beans and serve them with baked chicken seasoned with the “Louisiana Trinity” over a bed of white rice. The Chef’s Brigade produced up to 60,000 meals a day, utilizing independent restaurants throughout Orleans Parish to feed at-risk residents and neighbors throughout New Orleans.

Dunbar is happy that the restaurant can do its part in giving back to the community. She understands that the people of New Orleans have been an integral part in the continued success of her restaurant and rallied behind her to keep Dunbar’s Creole Cuisine going. Though there have been many ups and downs and stressful days, she always looks forward to what is to come – and there are exciting new plans. And through it all, she says that one thing will be certain, “people will come from all over the world and ask for those Camellia red beans and rice with fried chicken.”

Unfortunately, due to losses from Hurricane Ida in 2021, Dunbar’s Creole Cuisine is now officially closed after serving soul food to generations of New Orleanians.

Written by Eric Olsson

If the walls could talk.

Pimm’s Cups, intrigue, first dates, proposals of varying sorts, assignations, Creole flavors and a place to rest after a long day in the French Quarter — Napoleon House hasn’t changed much since 1914 when this famed bar and restaurant was opened by the Impastato family.

But if the walls could talk, Napoleon House would start telling tales from an earlier time when the building was owned by Nicolas Girod. Nicolas was a businessman, mayor of New Orleans from 1812 to 1815, and a dreamer and schemer. Soon after inheriting the building in 1814, he began to alter it, creating the three-story building that we see today. Legend says the work was done in preparation for the arrival of Napoleon Bonaparte, whose supporters — rumored to include local pirates Jean Lafitte and Dominique You — were planning to help him escape from exile in Saint Helena and come to New Orleans.

Napoleon died before this alleged escape plan came to fruition, but his portraits still preside over the Napoleon House on the faded plaster walls, and the stern bust of his countenance surveys the dreamily illuminated bar and restaurant where cocktails and classic New Orleans cuisine rule the day and night.

Red Beans on Monday

In 2015, executive Chef Chris Montero of the Ralph Brennan restaurant group took the helm at Napoleon House, where he is also the general manager. Montero, who’s from an 8th-generation New Orleans family and well-versed in classic Creole cuisine, kept many of the original Impastato family recipes, merely tweaking them with artisan-made ingredients. At the top of that list of was Monday red beans and rice.

Montero grew up sampling different red beans and rice styles: his grandmother preferred ham hock, pickled pork, and a spicy smoked sausage; his mother rendered pork and sausage. For his own version of red beans, Montero harkens back to his grandmother’s classic Creole cooking. “I make it with chicken stock,“ he said.

Sausage that tastes good and does good.

One of the two sausages Montero uses in Napoleon House red beans is a Creole smoked sausage that has a local — and philanthropic — origin. As part of “Silence of da Hams,” a team that competes in Hogs for the Cause (a barbecue competition held in New Orleans that’s an annual benefit for pediatric brain cancer), Montero helped develop the sausage. It’s also available in grocery stores, and a portion of its sales goes to Hogs.

Camellia in the (Napoleon) House

Montero also uses Camellia Brand beans. As he put it, “To me this is the only brand people buy.” Montero leaves the important job of preparing the dish at Napoleon House to Josh Bierria, the restaurant’s production chef. A “behind-the-scenes” person, Bierria is an essential part of the team, said Montero. “Josh’s Camellia red beans and rice have become a big item on Goldbelly.com” said Montero, adding, “Two weeks ago we shipped 200 cases of red beans and rice in a day, all over the U.S.” Would Napoleon have liked red beans and rice? Montero contemplates for a moment and answers, “Why, not?!”

Written by Sue Strachan

Forty-five years ago, Leo Christakis decided to purchase Mena’s Palace in the French Quarter as a way to move back to Greece. When he learned that the restaurant was for sale, he told his brother, Leo, “Let’s buy it, make some money to save up, and move back to Greece.” His brother agreed. But as the years went on and the business continued to thrive, Christakis and his family began to build relationships and friendships with those who lived around the restaurant. “In my culture,” he said, “you go to a friend’s house, and they ask you what do you want to eat? What do you want to drink? Then, we sit around and talk, and drink, and eat. That is how we do it here, that is how we take care of our customers.”

“He refuses to buy any other brand than Camellia.”

“It’s all he’s ever cooked with,” said Leo’s daughter and restaurant co-owner Ellie Christakis, referring to her dad. “One time, an order came in for lima beans. Our supplier had sent a different brand and we had used them because we had to make some lima beans. He tasted it. ‘No. These aren’t Camellia,’ he said. ‘Don’t order anything but Camellia.’ And we definitely learned our lesson. The color was different. The taste was different. It’s amazing what a difference Camellia makes.”

Start with the trinity.

At Mena’s they start their red beans with the trinity (onions, bell peppers and celery). They sauté it down and add smoked sausage as the seasoning meat. Once the red beans are added, they cook them for a long time to get to that creamy texture and serve them with fried chicken or smoked sausage on the side. Ellie Christakis explained that the family uses Camellia products at home, too. She makes the Greek soup ‘Fakes’ with Camellia lentils. The soup (pronounced ‘Fah-kehs’) is traditionally made with lentils, water, red onions, garlic, bay leaves and a tomato puree (if you want it reddened) and served with an added drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and lots of vinegar. “There’s another one called a ‘Fasolada’ and it uses a Great Northern Bean. And we only use Camellia,” Ellie Christakis said of the soup that many consider to be one of the national dishes of Greece.

Here for the community.

One thing that has been certain about Mena’s Palace and the Christakis family is that they have always put the needs of the neighborhood first. Whether it was coming back from Hurricane Katrina or riding out the pandemic, their top priorities have always been to treat everyone like family, keep prices low, serve big portions of high-quality food, and remain consistent. “We appreciate our customers and the relationships and friendships we have with them,” Ellie Christakis said. “New Orleans is such a nice city, especially in the French Quarter. There are so many good people. A lot of warmth and love.”

New Orleans is home.

“I wanted to move back to Greece, but never did,” said Leo Christakis reflecting on his decision to stay in New Orleans and continue operating Mena’s Palace with his family. “You get to understand the people, and I loved that. I wanted to see the customers happy and the rest took care of itself. I am 77. I’m still working, and I still like it.”

Written by Eric Olsson

As you walk up to, the aroma of fried chicken fills the air. People from all over the world line up and wait, sometimes hours, to enter Willie Mae’s Scotch House, a small two-room restaurant in the historic Treme neighborhood of New Orleans. They’re attracted by not only the aroma of perfectly fried chicken, but also by the accolades from the Food Network, the Travel Channel and the James Beard Foundation, which declared it an “American Classic Restaurant” for carrying on the traditions of great regional cuisine.

At one time, Willie Mae’s was just a corner spot that was only known within the neighborhood. It started out as a bar in 1957, then after moving to its current location, a beauty salon was added in the front because Willie Mae Seaton always wanted to be a beautician. She began to cook in the small kitchen behind the bar to feed the customers and soon after, they were telling her that she needed to open her own restaurant. In the early 1970s, the beauty shop was closed to make room for those who were coming in to eat the smothered veal, pork chops and that crispy, spicy fried chicken.

As word got around, the dining room, which seems more someone’s house than an actual restaurant, began to fill up. In May of 2005, the award from the James Beard Foundation put the old scotch house on the radar of every food critic, journalist, and tourist from around the country, and the lines stretched longer. But just months later, the restaurant was destroyed by Hurricane Katrina and the flooding that followed it.

After almost three years of rebuilding, with the help of countless volunteers and family members, Willie Mae’s Scotch House reopened to great acclaim. Willie Mae stepped aside and her great-granddaughter, Kerry Seaton-Stewart, carries on the tradition of the famed family-owned restaurant. The national praise of their fried chicken took off.

“Then of course there’s the trinity – celery, bell peppers and onions.”

Kerry Seaton-Stewart grew up in the kitchen with her great-grandmother and grandmother. “She had me in the kitchen with her my whole life,” Seaton-Stewart said, who began working at Willie Mae’s as a teenager. “She would require that I cooked all of these cultural meals. All the traditional meals. At school, they would fix red beans for lunches and I would just play with it because they were not my grandmother’s beans. I was always comparing and measuring the standard of red beans.”

But Seaton-Stewart knew that adapting to changing times was important to keep the restaurant moving forward. She noticed that those who lived outside of the southern region were not accustomed to eating lots of pork and fatty meats like they used in the pot of red beans or butter beans. “I felt the vegan wave coming on and I just wanted to be ahead of it and be inclusive,” she said. “That way, if people came in and they weren’t all pork eaters they can still eat it. I’ve been making them vegan for 14 years now.”

By switching the red beans and butter beans, which are large lima beans, to vegan, she felt that the actual flavor of the two dishes were lifted. One of the enhancements she found while doing taste tests with family and friends, was to include extra bay leaves. “Bay leaves are a must,” she said. “Then of course the trinity – celery, bell peppers and onions – and then some garlic.”  But the not-so-secret ingredient is in the red beans themselves.

“We use Camellia because it’s just a better grade of beans.”

Seaton-Stewart said that you can tell that the quality of Camellia beans is better than any other brands simply by the way they are farmed and cultivated.” You don’t have all the rocks in there and broken beans,” she said. “Camellia is high quality and they just cream better so you know when you cook them it’s going to make a good bean sauce. No other beans are going to be creamy like that.”

Expanding the tradition

Willie Mae’s Scotch House has been as popular as ever. After 60 years at the corners of St. Ann and Tonti in the Treme neighborhood, Seaton-Stewart expanded into the Central Business District food hall, Pythian Market, in 2019, with a condensed version of the restaurant. The new location still features the same iconic fried chicken and red beans and rice and will help meet the supply and demand to the loyal longtime following of locals and tourists to keep the legacy going.

“Red Beans tells the story of the culture of New Orleans,” Seaton-Stewart said. “It means home to me. It makes me think of my family because we have so many good times and great memories eating a pot of red beans.”

Written by Eric Olsson

In the middle of the ever-changing Bywater neighborhood in New Orleans, there is an unassuming yellow store front at the corners of Dauphine and Piety streets. Take one step inside the small grocery store and it’s like you are stepping back in time to the early 1970s.

The building that houses Frady’s One Stop has been around for more than a hundred years. Before Joseph Frady bought the going-out-of-business Flick’s Meat Market in 1972, it was an open-air fruit stand. Frady bought the meat market with two goals in mind: to turn it into a corner grocery store and to serve the best cold drinks and sandwiches. 

After Frady’s One Stop opened and word spread around the neighborhood about the food, locals began to ask for more than just sandwiches. To accommodate the customers, Frady had a small kitchen installed behind the counter with deep fryers and a stove and began to serve hot lunches and daily specials. Year after year, the list of po-boy sandwiches and daily specials could be found scrawled across the black chalkboards that decorate the interior.

A red beans tradition.

“Right away my father started to serve red beans and rice on Mondays because they were coming in and asking for it,” said Kirk Frady, who now runs the food store. “My dad was born and raised in New Orleans and grew up like that with my grandmother. Monday was wash day, and red beans and rice. People came into Frady’s and expected that.”

You’ll not only find packages of Camellia Beans being offered for sale on the grocery store shelf, but it’s also a Monday ‘lunch special’ that is served to-go with either smoked sausage or chicken, a vegetable (such as mustard or collard greens) and a dessert (bread pudding or a cobbler) for a price that has had loyal locals and in-the-know tourists coming back for decades.

“I don’t know where the recipe came from.”

“We usually cook four to five pounds of Camellia Red Beans every Monday,” Kirk Frady said. “I don’t know where the recipe came from. My dad hired a cook, an older lady, and she lived next door. She would soak the beans overnight, then she would come in and cook them. And it’s still the recipe we’re using today.”

To make the beans extra creamy, Kirk Frady says to use lots of butter along with mashing the beans in the end. To get that extra depth of flavor, besides onions, bell pepper, and garlic, he recommends using lots of celery. “We’re big on celery,” he said.

“We’ve always used Camellia. They have always been here and are established in New Orleans.”

Frady’s One Stop has established itself as a mainstay in an old neighborhood that is rapidly evolving around it. Away from the colorful residential streets that are lined with rows and rows of double shotgun houses and Creole cottages, the industrial spaces are being reclaimed and transformed as artists and musicians move in. Bed and breakfasts are sprouting up to meet the demand of tourists visiting this quirky, laid-back part of New Orleans.

“It’s a working-class neighborhood. We get a lot of carpenters and electricians, who are working on these old houses, come in to eat with us because it is an easy meal,” Kirk Frady said, “but with the Bywater being such a destination now, we’re selling a lot more groceries, like beans and hot sauces in little gift baskets because they want to take them back to where they are staying or send them back home. Even though they did not grow up with wash day and soaking beans, they know the drill and they want to take Camellia red beans and a Barq’s with them.”

“No Wifi at Frady’s. Sit and talk.”

At its core, Frady’s One Stop is still an old-world type of neighborhood grocery store, but deep down it’s one of the best spots to grab a bite to eat in New Orleans. While a small portion of the menu changes daily, the list of the sixteen po-boys offered along with the selection of breakfast that is served all day remains a fixture, just like the sign that reads “No Wifi at Frady’s. Sit and Talk.” So take your red beans and rice to go, sit outside on one of the colorfully painted benches, enjoy the charming neighborhood and know that no matter how much the area changes around you, the folks at Frady’s know what it means to be New Orleanians.

Written by Eric Olsson

LSU Dining Executive Chef Laurence Landon, center, leads a cooking class for students.

When he’s not hilariously demonstrating clever ways for students to create quick meals in his comedic cooking series on YouTube entitled “Hack the Hall,” Executive Chef Laurence Landon has another regularly scheduled performance: managing the entirety of Louisiana State University’s Residential Dining operations. He knows how to stir the beans, as they say: the talent and commitment to quality and sustainability of Chef Laurence and his team have resulted in the 459 Commons Dining Hall’s certification by The Green Restaurant Association as 3-Star Green Restaurant. But on this day we found him in the kitchen, literally stirring the beans in a huge, rectangular vat, in anticipation of a busy lunch.

Beans taste like home.

Akin with many a Louisiana restaurant, The 5, as it’s called on campus, typically serves red beans on Mondays – a comforting taste of home for students from Louisiana. “Most students coming from other states aren’t aware of this tradition,” said Chef Laurence. He added that it doesn’t take long for them to learn just how important beans are in the food culture of the region. Chef Laurence also rotates lots of international bean dishes on the menu, like congri (a Cuban beans-and-rice comfort food), curries, falafel made with red beans or white beans, vegetarian bean burgers, and one of his favorite fusion foods – red beans and rice “egg rolls” – delicious dollops of red beans and rice wrapped in a wonton (like an egg roll) and fried. “Our menu is part down-home Southern and part eclectic international,” he said.

LSU’s Executive Chef of Residential Dining Laurence Landon stirs red beans ahead of a busy lunch at the 459 Commons Dining Hall on the LSU campus.

How do you red bean, Chef Laurence?

Chef Laurence makes his red beans – and all the beans on his menu – vegetarian, in order to be inclusive of vegan and vegetarian students, and serves platters of smoky meats and sausages that can be selected by diners as sides. His recipe is “pretty classic,” as he calls it – bay leaf, salt and pepper, cayenne, seasoning trinity – but he also adds “a bit of dried mustard and green hot sauce.” Chef orders his Camellia Red Kidney beans 25-pound sacks, and soaks them overnight on Sunday in anticipation of Monday’s lunch. Soaking them, he said, “quickens their cooking time and helps them cream faster.”

The Red Beans and Rice is served vegetarian, with meats and sausages as optional sides.

Healthy eating is part of the curriculum

Chef Laurence and his talented chefs and kitchen staff are at the forefront of LSU’s balanced lifestyle and healthy eating initiative, which brings eating into the educational sphere. The idea is that while students are at LSU, they’ll not only be studying academics, but will also be exposed to new foods and new ways of thinking about their eating habits, health and wellness. Fresh, local produce is a priority, nutritional values of foods are posted, and new life has been breathed into the dining menus as well as the university’s approach to student living – all of which provides multiple opportunities for that nutritional powerhouse, the bean, to steal the show.

Chris Belvin, owner of News Restaurant.

In an age of restaurant chains, people will go miles out of their way for an authentic dining experience, and News Restaurant in Meridian, Mississippi, is sure to deliver.  It’s a classic Southern diner, as famous for its musical events and visits from celebrities as it is for its traditional home-cooking. In this restaurant’s long history, everyone from local church ladies in colorful Sunday hats to truckers, blues and country musicians, politicians and movie stars have come to sample their Southern diner fare, freshly baked pie and live music.

“This restaurant is a blessing. It’s a way to help.”

The key to News Restaurant is, it’s all about family, says current owner Chris Belvin as he walks past rows of signed celebrity photos in the restaurant’s dining room – The O’Jays, Sela Ward, The Temptations, Patrick Swayze – and when Belvin, who took over the place’s management after his mom and brother retired, talks about family, he does so in the broadest, finest sense of the word. For him, the whole restaurant is a family, from the owners to the staff to the customers. Says Belvin, “This business takes care of itself, maybe because the way we see it, it’s a blessing, a way to help all the people involved.”

From gas station to diner, without a hitch.

“Uncle Hermon” New started the restaurant as a gas station in 1935, only to find his business in trouble in 1942, when World War II gas-rationing put many small, independently owned service stations in the South and across America out of business. Uncle Hermon’s wife, whom everyone called “Mrs. Hattie Jane,” began serving hamburgers to customers for ten cents apiece to make ends meet, and soon locals and travelers had spread the word that News Service Station was the place to gather and grab a bite while gassing up the car or waiting for a repair to be done. Next came the car hops, serving travelers at their car windows, and by the 1950s, News Service Station had become News Restaurant, employing many friends and family members along the way.

News Restaurant in 1942.

Homemade pie, freshly baked every day.

Ask a dozen regular customers what they love about the food at News Restaurant and you’ll get a dozen different answers, but all can agree that their home-made pies, baked fresh daily, are a favorite dessert that one just doesn’t find too often in restaurants these days. Order a slice à la mode and be taken back to the glory days of the American diner, when fresh-made was the only way.

The menu also pays homage to varied cuisines that have made Mississippi their home over the last two centuries. Alongside Southern classics like field peas with cornbread, candied yams and fried okra or chicken and dumplings you’ll find Mexican hot tamales, Italian sandwiches and pasta dishes, and plenty of Gulf Coast seafood. And in a nod to not-so-far-away New Orleans, customers can order that city’s iconic red beans & rice dish as well as Louisiana Creole specialties like gumbo and étouffée.

The original gas station signage is still visible in the restaurant’s dining room.

The beans are popular, just like the music.

As beans are a beloved ingredient in Southern cooking, Belvin is well acquainted with the Camellia Brand family of beans and peas. Besides red beans & rice, he regularly serves blackeye peas, field peas and white beans, all stewed down to perfection. But great home-cooked food isn’t the only reason to gather at News Restaurant. There’s also the music. Belvin left the music industry to take over the restaurant, and, in a manner of speaking, he brought his friends with him. On one end of the dining room is an erstwhile stage where country and blues bands regularly gig, to the delight of diners. There’s a happy, party atmosphere at News Restaurant, and it doesn’t take long to understand that it’s a direct reflection of Chris Belvin’s love of life, family, food, music and all things creative.

News Restaurant is the winner of the 2020 Camellia Beans Giveaway and recipient of 200 pounds of Camellia Brand Beans, of which Chris Belvin has generously donated 100 pounds to The Care Lodge, a shelter for battered women in Meridian.

Mosquito Supper Club in New Orleans. Photo excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Denny Culbert.

Authentic Cajun cooking in Uptown New Orleans

The Cajun cuisine of Louisiana is many things. The central Louisiana “Cajun prairie” area is known for its boudin (a spicy sausage typically containing ground pork, rice, onion, parsley, green peppers, and plenty of Cajun spices) and smoked meats, among other inland delicacies.

Coastal South Louisiana Cajun communities, however, are known for their seafood – briny oysters, fat jumbo shrimp, tender soft-shell crab, flavorful redfish. But according to New Orleans chef and restaurateur Melissa Martin’s experience (she grew up in a South Louisiana fishing village) those seafood delights weren’t typically the main course in coastal Cajun homes – they were more like sides, albeit spectacular ones. The main course was, more often than not, a large plate of beans and rice seasoned with salt pork. And lucky for us, just such a plate of Cajun beans and rice is often featured on the menu at Mosquito Supper Club, Martin’s cosy, family-style New Orleans restaurant.

Chasing a flavor…

Housed in a charming, circa 1898 Victorian house on Dryades Street in the Milan neighborhood of Uptown New Orleans, Mosquito Supper Club is a casual, homespun showcase for the exquisite coastal Cajun cooking that Martin learned “by osmosis” from the elder women in her family. Says Martin in her beautifully photographed book of coastal Cajun recipes entitled Mosquito Supper Club: Cajun Recipes From A Disappearing Bayou, “I was inspired by the food that I grew up eating in the tiny fishing village of Chauvin, Louisiana. Women cooked the food and recipes and techniques were passed down as if through an apprenticeship; by watching, learning and doing, and by chasing a flavor. I wanted to share that food with anyone who wanted to take a seat at our tables.” As for chasing a flavor, she explains, “When you have memories from your childhood, of certain tastes and smells, and you try it out and adjust it until it matches your memory and gives you the feeling that those memories bring, and you know it’s right – that’s chasing a flavor.”

Mosquito Supper Club White Beans & Rice. Recipe and photo are excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Denny Culbert.

White beans the Cajun way

The menu changes daily at Mosquito Supper Club, and it’s always memorable. Guests are seated family style (right next to strangers who soon become friends), at long tables of handcrafted reclaimed wood, as Martin and her staff bring out wine, fresh-baked biscuits, and platters and bowls of authentic coastal Cajun food made with incredibly fresh seafood, meat and produce. Expect to dive into lots of delicious, with menu items like duck gumbo, oyster bisque, crab claws marinated in cane vinegar, fried soft-shell crabs, shrimp jambalaya, stuffed crawfish heads, and, of course, Martin’s Mosquito Supper Club White Beans. Martin uses Camellia Navy Beans and seasons them “the way Cajuns do” with salt pork and both black and cayenne pepper. Martin graciously shares her family’s Monday Red Beans & Rice recipe, too, although it’s not featured on her restaurant’s menu.

“My mother swore by Camellia Beans”

“White beans, red beans, lima beans – beans are a staple in the Cajun pantry,” says Martin. And she adds, “My mother swore by Camellia beans.” From her mother, Martin learned how to measure the quality of a pack of dried beans: “She taught me that when you go to soak beans, if they’re fresh they will wrinkle quickly.”

Prepping for a busy shift at Mosquito Supper Club. Photo is excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Denny Culbert.

Five-plus courses of authentic Cajun delicious

Mosquito Supper Club offers a five (or more) course meal plus wine and cocktails for dinner several nights a week, plus a Sunday brunch with the added delight of extra baked goods, brunch menu items such as raw oysters and eggs topped with caviar, and being able to bask in the warm sunlight that filters into the charming, slightly rustic dining area of this 19th century former residence. While the menus change, one thing remains the same: each dish is prepared thoughtfully, with the best and freshest ingredients, inspired by generations of home cooking in the coastal fishing villages of South Louisiana.

Salt pork, ready to season a pot of Cajun-style beans. Photo is excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Denny Culbert.

Zingerman’s Brings the Fun and Flavor of Camellia Beans to Ann Arbor

Camellia Beans are in the house! Zingerman’s Roadhouse, that is – and this is great news for mid-western foodies and anyone else who loves a delicious bowl of beans. The Roadhouse is known for seeking out great American food traditions and serving them up the old-fashioned way with authentic, carefully sourced ingredients and strong ties to their local community. It’s part of a friendly, loosely connected empire of businesses in the Ann Arbor, Michigan, area that is presided over by co-founders Paul Saginaw and Ari Weinzweig, who started their first business (a delicatessen) in 1982 with just two goals: to make a great corned beef sandwich and to have a business with soul. Since then, they’ve been recognized for excellence by the likes of Bon Appetit magazine and the James Beard Foundation and have become internationally known for their business model. However, they still find time to serve up extra helpings of fun – and yes, plenty of soul – with every item on their menus.

Traditional Food With Soul

Walk into Zingerman’s Roadhouse (or any Zingerman’s business) and you get the feeling that the making-money part is just a means to the true goal: to gather people together in celebration of American culture and delicious, heart-warming food traditions. You’ll meet people who know everything about the foods they make and serve, who’ll want to explain it all to you, and who genuinely seem to enjoy their jobs. There’s the original deli and mail order business, the Roadhouse restaurant, a full-service bakery, a creamery producing fine cheeses and gelato, a coffee company, a wedding cake company, a candy manufacturer, a farm, event venues, a cooking school, a worldwide food tour company, and even a business training program.  And with all of this focus on quality and authenticity, the South’s beloved Camellia brand Beans are a perfect fit. They’ll be found in a few dishes (using Camellia red kidney, pinto and black beans), including New Orleans–style red beans & rice, ancho beef chile and refried beans. Says Ari: “Those world-class Camellia red beans, simmered with a mess of smoked pork and spices, are super terrific! In a bit of a take-off on the British baked beans on toast, we’ve also been serving the red beans on toast too. Tremendously good!” 

“No joke – you really can taste the difference”

Ari was introduced to to the superior flavor of Camellia Brand Beans by Chef Alon Shaya (of restaurants Saba in New Orleans and Safta in Denver). Says Ari, “I’m not sure what took us so long… Of course, all that’s happened is that we’ve finally figured out what nearly everyone in New Orleans has known for ages. Camellia beans bring killer quality to the kitchen! No joke – you really can taste the difference. Camellia beans clearly taste better and have a creamier texture.” 

About That Side of “Anarchy”…

Ari studied Russian history in college, focusing on the anarchists, and while he’s a self-proclaimed “lapsed anarchist,” he does like to shake up traditional business structures in order to promote entrepreneurial vigor, creativity and job satisfaction. His idea of anarchy is to run a business as a healthy, egalitarian community with plenty of room for critical thinking and questioning of rules and systems. And, it seems he’s on to something: the Zingerman’s Community of Businesses is now famous for its loose, “organic ecosystem” business structure, and Ari regularly coaches eager students of the system (which has been featured in Forbes and Fortune magazines) as yet another component of the many Zingerman’s offerings. Inc.com recently named Ari among the Top 10 CEOs In The World (Ari is #2), citing Zingerman’s unusual corporate structure and featuring Ari’s favorite quote: “Beliefs underlie every single thing we do, both individually and organizationally. Beliefs are like the root system of our lives. In my metaphor, I started to look at organizational culture as the soil. Clearly the quality of the soil will have a huge impact on what’s planted – new ideas or new people – in the organization.” As it is for business, so it is for beans…

CEO Ari Weinzweig chats with his customers.

Coming Around to the Hayward Standard

When he’s not encouraging “foodpreneurship” at home, Ari is traveling America and the world in search of traditional, high-quality foods to bring back to food-loving Zingerman’s customers. He leaves no stone – and no bean – unturned in his search for the best. Upon discovering and tasting Camellia Brand Beans, he shared an epiphany of sorts on the subject of bean quality: “Can there be that much difference in a bean? The simple answer is ‘absolutely.’ And why not? Beans are just as much an agricultural product as any other produce that comes out of the ground. And you wouldn’t even flinch if I told you that one variety of tomato was more flavorful than another… the same is true for beans.” American bean farmers, of course, have known this for generations: the Hayward family, owners of Camellia Beans since 1923, demanded such high quality beans that their suppliers added a grade above the highest grade on the USDA’s bean quality scale to use as a standard for setting aside their best beans for Camellia. To this day it’s still called the Hayward Standard.  

Get a Taste of Food with Soul

So stop by Zingerman’s Roadhouse if you are in the Ann Arbor area to get a taste of some really good American food with soul – with an extra helping of red beans and rice.

Building a Red Beans Community

For most people, the thought of planning, organizing and hosting a dinner party for dozens of people each week is enough to make them break out in a cold sweat. Between the grocery shopping (in bulk!), sending invitations, cooking the meal itself and—of course—kitchen cleanup, it’s a serious labor of love to invite others into your home to share a homemade meal.

But for Emily Shaya, Director of New Projects for Pomegranate Hospitality, that’s just a typical Monday night.

“After I went to business school [at Tulane], I moved to Atlanta…but I really missed New Orleans. So, when I got back [to the city], I vowed to start a New Orleans tradition that was new to me: making red beans on Mondays. It was a way to invite people over and catch up with friends on a consistent basis,” explained Shaya. “It just became a tradition where I would send out an email and invite basically the same 10 or 12 people over every week. At first, I would get three or four people to come, because people didn’t want to leave their house on a Monday. But now each week, what we call “small beans” is around eight people, and then big [beans] means like, 26 people, show up.”

And Shaya’s version of Monday night red beans means that adding another seat at the table is never a problem: the more, the merrier.

“If we have a bunch of people in town, or lots of people have friends in town who are visiting, they are always welcome to bring friends and family. We’ve celebrated people’s birthdays and anniversaries—all that kind of stuff—at our beans.”

Go Big, Go Home (or Do Both!)

But this year, Shaya is scaling her batch of beans up—way up—by taking her version of the dish public as a competitor in the 2019 Bean Madness competition. A double-blind, single elimination, bracket-style event modeled after March Madness and organized by the Krewe of Red Beans, the tournament pits 32 restaurants and teams against each other in the “Road to the Final Fork.”

Before the competition, Shaya expressed her anticipation. “I’m excited to have a lot of people— different people—taste them. I’ve done a few events. We did a fundraiser for the Crescent City Farmer’s Market, where we had about 100 people come and try the beans, and people liked them there. So, we’ll see how the City of New Orleans likes them.”

Shaya, who won the competition and took home the coveted “Legume d’Or”, was one of the few home cooks going head-to-head with restaurants from across the city in Bean Madness this year. That meant learning a lot of tricks, like large-scale batching, on the fly.

Shaya’s Secret? Bean-ing Together!

Shaya shared a look into her process. “This is my first red bean competition—or any kind of food competition! I’ve been working on my recipe, because it’s a large amount. It’s two gallons or three gallons per tasting, so I’m making sure I get my quantities right and things like that,” Shaya laughed. “For beans, I think that one thing you can slip up on is putting them in too large of a pot. I say, ‘They like to beantogether!’ And my husband [Chef Alon Shaya] always laughs at me, but when you cook them in a really large pot and there’s a lot of extra space, they don’t get as creamy for some reason. If it’s a smaller pot, they get creamier over time. I think it’s just because they bounce off of each other a lot more.”

And for anyone who talks to Shaya, it’s no surprise that she’s a fan of keeping things close together, whether it’s the beans in her pot or the friends and family around her red beans table on Monday night.

“I think the red beans tradition in New Orleans is really amazing because people who live here grew up eating beans at least once a week—always on Mondays. In their school, they grew up doing it, and then I know a lot of my friends, in their work cafeterias, they have red beans every Monday. I don’t know if there’s any other place where people eat the same food, every week, in the same way.”

Get Emily Shaya’s famous Red Beans & Rice recipe.

Winner, Winner Red Beans Dinner

When Ma Momma’s House of Cornbread, Chicken and Waffles was announced as the winner of the second annual Bean Madness competition last year, the Southern Food and Beverage Museum sounded like a concert stadium as everyone erupted in cheers.

“I told y’all when we walked in today, we came here to win. And we came here, and we won!” Rene “Chef Reero” Guzman yelled to a crowd whooping and clapping in support as she hoisted the “golden bean” statue high. And while many people grow up knowing that they’re destined for the kitchen, this champion—who bested 57 different competitors in the 2018 March Madness-style bracket tournament to take home the coveted title of “Legume d’Or”—had a path towards red beans glory that differed from many of her fellow chefs.

Chef Reero’s Road to Red Beans Glory

Born in the Fischer Projects, Guzman moved to New Orleans East (where Ma Momma’s now proudly makes its home) at age 13. Her mother would make red beans several times a week while the children were in school, but was unable to help teach Guzman the way around the kitchen due to complications from disabilities. It was many years later that this fiery chef found that cooking came naturally to her.

“What I cook today is what we ate growing up,” Guzman told The New Orleans Advocate shortly after her big win last year. “Beans are cheap to make, and you can stretch them, so it was always on the menu at my momma’s house growing up. It’s a real passion; it’s something we do. I never went to a culinary arts school. It just shows that we’re gracious, that we cook with love, and when you cook with love you can taste it.”

Cooking with a Whole Lot of Love—and a Little Bit of Attitude

Opened in 2013, Ma Momma’s House has become a community favorite in New Orleans East, and a destination for those across the region looking for top quality Creole soul food. And while the waffles (which range in flavor from praline and cream to “bacon lovers”) and chicken draw crowds, for the past year, it’s been the title of “Bean Madness winner” that has packed the tables.

“We have Camellia Beans on deck—it’s poppin’!—and the [red] beans are good, y’all already know!” She told the crowd after her victory last April, wasting no time encouraging her giddy, bean-loving supporters to head to the restaurant.

And while Ma Momma’s House won’t be taking home the top prize again this year after falling to Francesca by Katie’s, there’s no doubt that Chef Reero will be serving up her award-winning, signature beans to hungry revelers in search of championship-level red beans.  

A take-off on the annual college basketball March Madness event, the 2018 Red Bean Madness Tournament event features 57 restaurants and individual chefs competing to see who makes the best red beans & rice in New Orleans!

The 2017 Red Bean Madness Champion was Cornet, a Cajun and Creole restaurant in the heart of the French Quarter.

A series of of head-to-head blind taste tests will take place at pop-ups all over the city – from corner bars and bookstores to groceries and markets. The first match ups, which involve all 57 of the original competitors, begin Thursday, March 8, 2018 and will go throughout the month. If you’re in NOLA, please come join us for some red beans & rice, and cast your vote during the taste tests. Check out pop-up dates, times and places for tasting and voting!

All tastings are free, but donations are always appreciated. Donations benefit the nonprofits Anna’s Place, which offers after-school and summer camp programs as well as health outreach and a food pantry, and Make Music Nola, a free music-for-social-change program.

Check out all the events, and we’ll see you there!

After all, when you’re reeling in Neptune’s endless bounty hand over fist in your sleep and feasting on jambalaya, crawfish pie, and filé gumbo from fais do-do to grave, perfecting the art of melting cheese on bread can get lost in the tricentennial shuffle.

However, times and tastes have changed (along with property values), and this town’s po’ pizza rap is changing faster than the Plaquemines Parish coastline. Mid City Pizza (4400 Banks St. and 6307 S. Miro in Uptown) is among a new breed of purveyors working hard to alter long-held perceptions, partly by employing a “when in Rome …” philosophy that splendidly weds New York-style pizza with South Louisiana flavors. Besides offering a tantalizing array of pies with all the traditional fixings, the pizzeria has turned the heads of local “hey-brahs” with a unique special that honors the Crescent City’s most-cherished Monday meal: red beans and rice pizza!

Served exclusively as a Monday special, the bean pizza has struck a chord both here and nationally. New Orleans ABC affiliate WGNO-TV recently produced a short video feature on the dish, while the organization People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) honored it as “The Best Vegan Pizza in the Nation,” besting a list of rivals operating in Olympian pizza strongholds such as Chicago and Long Island, N.Y.

“The PETA award was such a surprise and an honor,” said pizza chef and co-manager Daniel “D-Ray” Ray, who also is a vegetarian, a musician, and a force behind the DIY record-label collective Community Records. “To this day, I have no idea how exactly they heard about it. They just emailed us one day and let us know! I know I had some friends posting about it on the Internet in vegan blogs and such. I’m super happy to be providing a healthy, filling meal option for compassionate people.”

“A Staple of a Healthy Diet”

Recipes — and red beans — have been coursing through the Slidell native’s blood for as long as he can remember, with the melt-in-your-mouth manna of Grandma’s Thanksgiving noodles, Mom’s baked fresh-caught fish, and Dad’s award-winning chili seared into his vestigial taste buds.

“I started making red beans and rice from scratch every Monday when I was a sophomore at Loyola University in 2007,” D-Ray recalled. “For years, it had been a weekly tradition: I would make a big batch and eat on them throughout the week because I didn’t have time to make dinner every day. Being a vegetarian, red beans and rice are one of the only complementary complete protein sources. Beans and rice have been a staple of a healthy diet for centuries! Anyway, this clockwork motion — mixed with my creativity in the kitchen and love for both red beans and rice and pizza — eventually led me to simply put the two together.”

The Dish on How D-Ray Does It

So how does D-Ray concoct this doughy deconstruction of what is perhaps New Orleans’ most exemplary dish? “The first step comes the night before I want to cook: Soak the dried red beans in water (or some sort of hoppy beer) for at least 24 hours. I start the cooking process by sautéing diced Vidalia onions, green bell peppers, and celery until the onions are translucent and the bell peppers and celery are soft. Next, I add minced garlic and crushed red pepper and continue to sauté for just a little while longer. It’s easy to go past ‘browned’ to ‘burnt’ and you don’t wanna do that. Then I add the soaked, rinsed red beans to the veggies and the coldest water the faucet will give me. The cold water ‘shocks’ the flavor into the beans. Add a few bay leaves, bring the water to a boil and simmer, covered, for about 3-4 hours, stirring occasionally.

“Once it has thickened up a bit, I add parsley, thyme, and salt to taste and continue to simmer on low,” he continued. “I cut the heat and add some basil once I have the desired consistency. At some point, I’ll put some Zatarain’s rice in a rice cooker. Once both are done, I mix them together and put them in the fridge. The red beans and rice become red bean pizza as soon as I scoop them onto the dough.”

Red Beans With Built-In French Bread

Customers’ reactions run the gamut, with the most common being “It’s … interesting” as well as “It’s so filling!” The dish is perhaps most popular with the health-conscious holdouts who lurk among us. “Vegans and vegetarians can’t get enough of it,” D-Ray confirmed. “They think it’s the best thing since nutritional yeast.”

D-Ray suggests that partakers fine-tune their expectations before chowing down. “People go into it like they’re eating pizza when it’s actually much more filling than that,” he observed. “Some people are skeptical because they are thinking ‘pizza’ when they should be thinking ‘red beans with the French bread built in.’”

When it comes to confecting his own red beans, D-Ray — like most New Orleanians — pulls from a time-tested playbook of personal preferences and family traditions. “The most important ingredient,” he believes, “is thyme. For me, it’s what makes them shine.” As for condiments, D-Ray pledges a singular allegiance: “Everyone knows Crystal is the only hot sauce for red beans and rice!”

Secret Ingredient: “Support Local Companies”

Mid City Pizza’s experiments with local specialties don’t stop with red beans. “The shrimp remoulade pizza was invented by my good, good friend, co-manager, and pizza sensei, Sean Barros,” D-Ray said. “It was created as a special around Lent, but had such a great reaction we decided to keep it around.” The restaurant also has offered a jambalaya calzone in the past.

Carnivores and connoisseurs of locally sourced products can find plenty of options at Mid City Pizza, starting with the beans. “I use Camellia red beans because I like to support local companies, no matter how big or small,” D-Ray declared. “Camellia also has a reputation of high-quality USDA standards and the beans are non-GMO.”

Sausage From Over Bayou St. John

Those seeking meat on their pizzas can choose from toppings such as pepperoni, meatballs, marinated chicken, bacon, or ham, but Mid City Pizza also has a special Sicilian weapon: Italian and hot sausage made in-house at Terranova’s, the practically legendary 90-year-old family-run grocery at 3308 Esplanade Ave. near the New Orleans Fair Grounds.

“We have been working with Terranova’s since the beginning, even before it was Mid City Pizza,” D-Ray said. “The Terranova’s family are some of the kindest people you could ever meet.”

And for some of the most delectable pizza you could ever eat west of Naples and south of the Mason-Dixon line, visit Mid City Pizza in the burgeoning Banks Street bar and restaurant corridor, in the space formerly occupied by Crescent City Pie and Sausage Company — and now at a 2nd location Uptown across from Tulane Stadium, in the space that used to house Naked Pizza. Take a well-deserved break from your Monday laundry and Dutch oven to sample their made-to-order special, the red beans and rice pizza. Or, if you’re feeling more like Morgus and Chopsley, throw ethical concerns to the wind and sink your incisors into a flesh-laden Mid City Meat Monster. You’ll taste the difference!

“An army marches on its stomach,” Napoleon Bonaparte once declared.

And so does the army of service professionals who maintain one of New Orleans’ — and America’s — most treasured culinary institutions: Galatoire’s.

What is the secret ingredient that fuels their daily march toward gustatory excellence? The late-afternoon staff dinners, which employees refer to as the “family meal.”

While legions of bon vivants dine on the signature French Creole dishes that made Galatoire’s legendary — such as Trout Marguery, Pompano Meuniere, Eggs Sardou, Godchaux Salad, Crabmeat Yvonne, Oysters en Brochette, and Shrimp Remoulade, to name just a few — the staff itself feasts on hearty, mostly off-the-menu fare prepared by the same kitchen crew that satisfies paying customers’ tastebuds.

What combination dish arguably reigns supreme at the Galatoire’s staff meal? Red beans and rice paired with fried chicken.

Galatoire Descendant: “Beans Are Perfect”

“Obviously for a staff meal you want something tasty, you want to keep your employees happy, and you want to keep them well-fed,” opined David Gooch, a member of the Galatoire family and former general manager. “And you need something that’s reasonably priced. That’s why beans are perfect. Beans are delicious, cheap, but they taste very good and they’re filling. Chicken is very reasonably priced. … You try to keep your soldiers healthy and happy and well-fed — and our employees, too. When you have a happy employee, you have a happy customer.”

Although Galatoire’s has never offered red beans and rice on its official menu, preferring to focus on the more highfalutin jewels of French-inspired Louisiana cuisine, Gooch himself doesn’t turn up his nose at Louis “Satchmo” Armstrong’s favorite dish. “My family, we cook beans at home just like everybody in New Orleans does. We do red beans on Monday just like most people do, but … other days of the week too.”

How does Gooch, who worked in the Galatoire’s kitchen for four years in the early ‘70s, do his beans? “I like a little extra butter, and I do put a dash of ketchup in it. Not too much, but I do like a little. The sweetness of the ketchup adds to it for me. And a little bit of butter adds to the richness. But of course they have to be cooked way down. I like them thick, creamy. Ham hocks, sausage, smoked sausage — I don’t like anything too spicy in sausage.”

“Tuesday Was Always Our Monday”

Ironically, although red beans and rice are synonymous with Mondays in New Orleans, they’ve never been served to the Galatoire’s staff on that day — for an obvious reason: The restaurant is closed Mondays.

And while red beans and rice are now served on Saturday, it wasn’t always so. The 2004 book “Galatoire’s: Biography of a Bistro” by Marda Burton and Kenneth Holditch describes how cook Wallace “Wally” Shelby, who started out as a busboy in 1947, spent his twilight years there:

“Wally still works strictly from memory, and now works a limited schedule, preparing the staff’s meals. When the food is ready he calls ‘Fooooooood Oooooooout!’ Red beans and rice is one of his specialties. Since the restaurant is closed on Monday, ‘Tuesday was always our Monday, so I cook red beans on Tuesday’ — red beans and rice being the traditional Monday dish in New Orleans. Often regular customers ask for a dish of it.”

With Shelby since retired, 36-year Galatoire’s cook Fernando Guiterrez now whips up most of the staff meals but doesn’t recall when Saturdays became red-bean day at Galatoire’s. A native of Managua, Nicaragua, Guiterrez learned to cook at a young age. “My mother, she used to have a restaurant, and I grew up just watching what she was doing.”

How does Guiterrez prepare the red beans? “It’s regular red beans, Camellia. Yeah, we get the big sacks. We just cook 5 pounds every Saturday for all the employees. We use pickled meat, smoked sausage, and ham, and the rest is vegetables, like onions, celery, bell pepper.”

Guiterrez adds his own special mojo to the flavor. “I make my own Creole seasoning. We use all the spices, everything ground like garlic, onion, cayenne pepper, black pepper, white pepper, salt, paprika.”

“One of the Favorite Meals Anywhere”

Family meal occurs daily around 4 p.m., with cooks, waiters, bartenders, porters, hostesses, and managers lining up, filling their plates in the kitchen, and taking seats in the main dining room, or else fanning out to tables in the adjoining restaurant, Galatoire’s 33 Bar and Steak. Others eat in the kitchen or standing up in the hallway behind the dining room’s central-control desk.

“It’s good, always good,” longtime maitre’d Arnold Chabaud observed while eating on his feet. “A staple of New Orleans, red beans and rice. It was only on Monday that they made red beans because you put a pot of red beans on. It would last all day while your laundry got done the rest of the day. That’s how it came to be. Most restaurants were closed on Mondays too. That’s why I think red beans were a big hit.”

“Anywhere you go around New Orleans, this is one of the favorite meals anywhere: red beans, rice, and chicken,” said porter Reggie Johnston, leaning against a kitchen wall, plate in hand. Commenting on the Camellia product, Johnston noted, “That’s probably one of the most popular beans here in New Orleans. That’s THE bean, yeah you right.”

“This is one of the best staff meals in the city,” waiter (and WWOZ disc jockey) Michael Dominici enthused. “Good, solid red beans, which keeps you nourished for the afternoon, and for a busy shift, it’s a perfect meal. It’s also very New Orleans to have red beans — a continuation of a New Orleans cultural thing to have red beans and staples like that. Most restaurants don’t take the time to prepare a really soulful, substantial meal like that.”

Sitting at a table in the main dining room, waiter Chris Evangelista Torres explained how his personal embellishments to the dish before him pay homage to his Puerto Rican roots. “I Latinize my red beans with cheese, green onion, and — as an ode to my childhood — my grandmother would put capers in her beans. I do the same.”

The Best Fried Chicken In Town? You Be the Judge

The other half of Saturday’s staff meal, the fried chicken, also has its devoted fans — among both the staff and the public. The golden crispy yardbird is not on the regular Galatoire’s menu but is available by request, with some waiters suggesting an accompaniment of Crab Maison, Shrimp Remoulade, and a side of brabant potatoes. “Our customers claim it’s the best fried chicken in town,” Arnold Chabaud confirmed. “The chicken is the best,” seconded Robert Engelhardt, head bartender at Galatoire’s 33. “Saturday-night chicken is my favorite, personally.”

White Beans That “Melt in Your Mouth”

Fernando Guiterrez cooks a variety of other dishes for staff meals, including blackeye peas, tacos, beef stew, and Salisbury steak. Another favorite is his white beans, served about every other Tuesday. “We call it butter beans,” he said. “We use the big ones. … It’s a big difference (from cooking red beans). They have bacon. You sauté bacon after you sauté onions and you don’t put a lot of vegetables, just onions and bacon and parsley. You use seasoning.”

“Spectacular,” Chabaud said of the white beans. “It’s a great dish. It’s creamy, soupy, delicious. I have one waiter here that does — it’s like a soup. He takes the beans and smashes them and he puts the liquid on and it comes out like a soup. He loves it.”

The white beans are a “special treat,” Robert Engelhardt said. “We get the red beans — they’re awesome. But you get the white beans as a special treat because those are just as nice. They’re just creamy; they melt in your mouth. Beautiful.”

And one of the most distinctive foods served at the Galatoire’s staff meal is yakamein soup, a dish virtually unknown outside of New Orleans but sharing recognizable characteristics with several ethnic cuisines. Legend has it that yakamein descends from recipes brought by Chinese immigrants of the 19th century, and it also resembles the pho that is the mainstay of New Orleans’ large Vietnamese community and its restaurants.

But modern-day yakamein is found mainly in African-American neighborhoods, with its most famous proponent being Linda Green, “The Ya-Ka-Mein Lady.” Some food historians attribute the dish’s introduction stateside to African-American soldiers who developed a taste for noodles during the Korean War. “It’s a traditional New Orleans dish in the black community,” Chabaud explained. “It’s a lot of substance for little money.”

Join Galatoire’s Now for “We Live To Eat Restaurant Week”

Except for the fried chicken, most of the grub served at the Galatoire’s family meal won’t be coming to your table there (unless you have the right waiter — wink, wink). However, you can always count on savoring any number of the countless iconic dishes that helped earn Galatoire’s the 2005 James Beard Foundation Award for Most Outstanding U.S. Restaurant.

The perfect time to visit Galatoire’s is now, during the Sept. 14-20 “We Live To Eat Restaurant Week” celebrations, sponsored in part by L.H. Hayward and Company, the packager of Camellia Brand dry beans, peas, and lentils. Galatoire’s and Galatoire’s 33 are joining dozens of local restaurants across the metro area in offering special menus to encourage diners to get out and experience New Orleans’ unique culinary heritage while supporting the restaurant industry, a huge cog in Louisiana’s economy. If this is where you’re at, don’t just eat to live — live to eat. And Galatoire’s is a wonderful place to start.

Corner store? Check.

Run by Sicilian-Americans? Check.

Selling roast-beef po-boys dripping with brown gravy and a heaping helping of character? Check.

With a list like that, you might think you’ve found yourself in some 6th Ward back-of-town joint in downtown New Orleans, where ravenous young Italian jazz cats like Louie Prima, Freddie Assunto, or Sharkey Bonano once chowed down after all-night blowout Bourbon Street jam sessions.

But you’re not. You’re in Metry, brah, in suburban New Orleans, at the corner of Aris Avenue and Rose Street, on the “lake side” of Metairie Road. You’re at Radosta’s Grocery. This temple to the po-boy is a throwback to the neighborhood joints of yesteryear, before zoning laws and gentrification turned Old Metairie into one of the area’s ritziest ‘hoods. Radosta’s is a real-deal slice of old New Orleans superimposed in a suburban setting.

Of course, Radosta’s roots are firmly planted in the city, at the South Carrollton Avenue grocery that Jerome and Rosemary Radosta ran from 1920 until the ‘70s.

The Metairie po-boy shop is now owned by Jerome’s son Don and his wife, Joan, and it’s still very much a family affair, with help from Don’s brothers Mark and Wayne, who has been cooking the roast beef and other menu staples every day since the ‘70s. In fact, this past June marked the 40th anniversary of commerce for Radosta’s current incarnation.

Pick Up A Fifth Or A Footlong

Radosta’s still looks very much like a grocery store, albeit one specializing in alcohol. A meat counter at the back of the store, where diners place their orders, contains cold cuts and other sandwich fixings.

But don’t go to Radosta’s thinking you’ll make your daily groceries here. This ain’t Whole Foods — or even nearby Langenstein’s — but is more akin to Nor Joe’s down the street. The shelves and racks are dominated by Italian olives and dressings, seafood boiling spices, fifths of liquor, gallons of mayonnaise and Creole mustard, potato chips, baked goods, and other snacks. Stuffed deer heads and fish trophies adorn the walls, along with neon beer signs and images of Louisiana cultural icons like the Tabasco logo. Checkered-cloth tables fill out the dining space, while the wall by the front door is lined with refrigerator cases packed with a mind-boggling array of beers and sodas.

Plate lunches and po-boys long ago replaced bread and butter as Radosta’s primary bread and butter. “My family has been in the grocery business for four generations,” Don Radosta told an interviewer in 2010.  “I used to work in our family grocery store out in New Orleans East. We moved to our current location 30 years ago, and about 15 years ago we made the switch to a po-boy shop. We had always made cold po-boys in our deli, but about 15 years ago we moved almost all the groceries out and opened up the kitchen.”

“We sell some beans now, yuh heard me?”

You’ll find many of your classic New Orleans daily specials at Radosta’s, including red beans and rice cooked up by Don and served every Monday. The main ingredient? Camellia Brand beans, bought by the 25-lb. sack.

“Don’s never used no red beans unless it’s Camellia,” Wayne Radosta noted. “You want to make the best, you use the best. That’s Camellia red beans.”

The Monday special offers red beans with a choice of smoked or hot sausage, plus a tossed salad and French bread. Hungry locals flock to Radosta’s for these beans with the same single-mindedness as they swarm the late Tony Angello’s Lakeview restaurant for the “Feed Me” special. Only, customers can expect to fill their ears as much as their bellies once the garrulous Radosta brothers start shucking and jiving. “We (are) like hambones over here,” Wayne Radosta admitted — a claim that many regulars would recognize as perhaps the understatement of the year.

And the formula is working. “We sell some beans now, yuh heard me?” marveled Wayne Radosta. “You ain’t in your grandma’s kitchen. This is a 90-lb. pot.”

According to Wayne, brother Don uses no salt pork or pickled meat in his base bean recipe, favoring chicken broth instead. He also employs a plentiful amount of thyme. “Don has a heavy hand,” Wayne noted, out of Don’s earshot.

“They Come High And Low” For Hot Sausage

But chicken broth is a far cry from the red-bean recipes of yesteryear. Wayne recalled that several “old-timers” have confided in him that for the “ultimate pot of beans,” chefs back in the early 20th century didn’t think twice about submerging a whole 1-lb. brick of pure lard into the mix. “And that kicked them up about 18 notches,” Wayne said, echoing Emeril. Thankfully, times have changed … maybe.

As for Radosta’s choice of sausage, Wayne swears by the “Black Oak” brand supplied by F. Christiana and Co. “Best smoked sausage you ever eat in your life. It don’t get no better.”

But the product of which he’s proudest is his own handmade innovation: the hot sausage. “People come from New Orleans East and — look — Norco. It’s patties, not links,” he noted. Wayne conceived the recipe 30 years ago and it hasn’t changed since. “That’s me. I invented it. I created it. … I worked on that formula for five years. They come high and low for it.” Wayne estimated that the hot sausage, whether served in beans or on po-boys, is one of Radosta’s top four or five sellers.

Wayne also whips up Radosta’s soups, which are available only in cooler months. Again, Camellia plays a key role. “Camellia beans, they’re the best. I don’t care if they red beans, white beans, blackeyes — it don’t matter.”

And Wayne should know. Recalling his salad days as a wide-eyed toddler staring up at the crammed shelves of exotic foodstuffs at his parents’ grocery, Wayne asserted: “I knew food before I could talk.”

And knowing food means there are no shortcuts to quality when concocting his bean-based soups. “I boil ’em separately in the pot,” Wayne declared. “I ain’t using no canned beans. That’s cheating.”

Roast Beef Po-Boy Fit For A King

Radosta’s has made its mark on the Crescent City’s culinary landscape with red beans and rice and other plate lunches, but its claims to fame don’t stop there. No less an authority than celebrated Louisiana chef John Folse has named Radosta’s his favorite roast-beef po-boy. “After living in Louisiana all my life, and being an expert on po-boys, I went out this spring to find the best roast-beef po-boy,” he said. “I thought beyond a shadow of a doubt that the best was at Radosta Grocery in Metairie. When you can hold a crusty piece of French bread that is absolutely overflowing with fresh, tender, juicy, flavorful slices of roast beef, and it’s saturated on the inside with the wonderful gravy, but the bread is still crusty on the outside, you know it’s something special.”

And the dean of New Orleans-area food critics, Tom Fitzmorris, said Radosta’s roast beef is “a contender (along with dozens of other places) for the honor of best in town. … The roast beef is seriously good, and will appeal particularly to those who like their beef in integral slices rather than falling apart.”

“We make our own gravy and cut our own tops of roast beef, so that’s our best seller,” Don Radosta said. “It don’t matter how you cook the roast,” Wayne Radosta told The Times-Picayune in 2011. “Bake it. Boil it. Do whatever you want. It’s the pot of gravy that makes the roast.”

In addition to its own hot and Italian sausage, Radosta’s also rolls out the real throwback, old-school cold-cut options, such as luncheon meat and liver cheese — not to mention the classic French-fried potato po-boy. Other homegrown spins include Joan’s Special, a grilled-shrimp po-boy; Don’s Special, a sausage-and-provolone po-boy covered with olive salad; and Wayne’s Special, a veal-parmesan po-boy topped with red gravy and provolone.

Plate Lunches And Pies Power Katrina Recovery

With the 10th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina around the corner, south Louisiana is counting its blessings. And one of those blessings is that Radosta’s survived the failure of the federal levees completely unscathed. In fact, it served as an oasis to recovery crews and returning locals working to bring the devastated city back to life. “We were back six weeks after the storm serving sandwiches,” Joan Radosta recalled. “We were driving around trying to scratch together some bread for po-boys, and Don had to drive to Denham Springs every day to get ice. Even with all that … we were still selling about 200 po-boys and 100 Hubig’s pies a day.”

Although the fate of Hubig’s has remained unclear, Radosta’s is still going strong, and it’s become a tradition for multiple generations of local lunchgoers. If you’re looking for festive food to take to parties or the parades, look no further than Radosta’s, a pillar of the New Orleans po-boy tradition and the perfect place for your palate to say “Farewell to meat” during Carnival ahead of the Lenten season.

And in a town where red-bean Mondays are as sacred as the holy rituals on Sundays, don’t let a week go by without partaking in a heaping sacramental plate of Camellia Brand legumes done the Radosta’s way.

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The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival is full of tough acts to follow. And when it comes to the red beans and rice served at Jazz Fest, legendary restaurateur Buster Holmes was perhaps the toughest act of all. But Judy Burks did just that, taking the reins from Holmes in the early 1970s and cooking up an empire built on Camellia beans that is still going strong today.

Judy Burks

At his namesake French Quarter restaurant, Holmes served his renowned red beans to everyone from Preservation Hall jazzmen to Louis Armstrong, Vincent Price, and Woody Allen. So he perhaps viewed his red-beans gig at the then-tiny Jazz Fest as just a sideline. He told organizers he would only cook 100 pounds.

Enter Judy Burks and her then-boyfriend Albert Sabi. The pair had worked the 1973 Jazz Fest serving up Cuban black beans based on a recipe from Sabi’s mother. However, as astonishing as it sounds today, the black beans were a hard sell, even as the couple doled out free samples on small plastic spoons. There were “not a lot of adventurous eaters in New Orleans” at the time, Burks recalled. “That looks like mud,” one fest-goer told her.

In the early ‘70s, only about 20 food booths were operating. When Holmes made it clear that 100 pounds of his famous red beans was all he was going to provide, Jazz Fest organizers wanted more. They approached Burks and Sabi about changing their beans from black to red. The couple agreed. Though Holmes eventually bowed out of the festival, he continued with his unquenchable gusto for life until 1994, when at age 89 he received a jazz funeral send-off worthy of red-bean royalty.

Camellia: “Always Good, So New Orleans”

Fifty years later, Burks is the Jazz Fest’s reigning queen of red beans. Locals and tourists alike feast on her definitive recipe at what has become the most famous music festival in the world. Burks has tinkered with the ingredients over the decades, but she says there has “always” been one constant: Camellia red beans. “No rocks, no mess, always good, so New Orleans,” Burks said of the product. She buys Camellia’s 25-lb. sacks and goes through an astounding 1,200 pounds every Jazz Fest!

Morris Douglas, Judy’s partner in Burks & Douglas, opening the 25-lb. bags of Camellia Red Beans

With roots in the Tangipahoa Parish town of Amite, as an eighth-grader Burks moved with her parents to the New Orleans suburb of Metairie and attended East Jefferson High School. She majored in art at Southeastern Louisiana University in Hammond and later earned master’s degrees from UNO and Tulane in English and fine arts, respectively. Over the years she has worked as a teacher and arts-program coordinator in the New Orleans public school system, and her paintings have been on display at local galleries.

Burks was headed off to Europe with boyfriend Albert when she got her first taste of Jazz Fest in 1973. Bitten by the bug, she and Albert realized that cooking at the fest could be a pretty decent part-time gig. In the early days, when the festival was only a single weekend, it was easy to run the booth. In later years, as Jazz Fest grew to encompass successive extended weekends, she managed to take time off without pay from the school system to work the fest.

It was during her job as visual-arts coordinator at the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts (NOCCA) that she managed to find the perfect sausage for her beans. Using the teachers lounge as a forum for a blind taste test, she rounded up several different brands and laid them out in tiny cups. The winner: Richard’s links from the Cajun town of Church Point, the brand she still uses today.

Years of Practice Yield “Perfect” Recipe

Burks feels that her recipe has been “perfect” for at least the past 10 years. On the road to perfecting her Platonic dish, over the years she’s learned a few tricks, including the power of white pepper. It’s “aromatic and blends well,” Burks said. She uses about five times as much white pepper as black pepper.

The spice rack of Jazz Fest Red Beans

As for rice, she now uses a parboiled product to avoid a “glutinous mess of overcooked rice.” For many years, following the advice of “some little old ladies from LaPlace,” she stored the rice in small individually prepared Ziploc bags to keep it fresh — until a fellow food vendor convinced her to switch to 5-gallon buckets for convenience’s sake.

For French bread accompaniment, her go-to brand is Leidenheimer of New Orleans. Burks also sells her own blackberry cobbler pie, and in earlier years, she offered iced tea.

Vegetarian fest-goers from around the world rejoiced in the 1990s when Burks made a major breakthrough: a meatless version of red beans. Many customers simply can’t believe that she conjures up such a robust flavor without using meat. Her secret: adding extra canola oil to enhance the dish’s creaminess. She now sells about one pot of vegetarian beans for every three pots of sausage beans.

Family: The Essential Ingredient

Over 50 years at Jazz Fest, Burks has witnessed and weathered many changes. On a personal level, her original partner in the business, Albert, passed away in 1987. “I did the ’87 festival by myself,” Burks recalled.

Ingredients for each large pot of Red Beans are prepped and stored in bags – parsley and green onions are being prepared above.

Burks & Douglas Is Born

But serendipity soon struck when she encountered a former student from her first year as a teacher. “He started out coming to help me in the kitchen, then he’d help out in the booth. Now Morris Douglas and his sister, Pam, are full-time partners,” Burks told The Times-Picayune in 1999.  The business is now known as Burks & Douglas.

You might say that family is another key ingredient to Burks’ red beans. Burks’ life partner, a sculptor, also helps out at the booth, specializing in the blackberry cobbler. And partners Morris and Pam Douglas have several relatives active in the business.

Pam Douglas, Morris Douglas, and Judy Burks

“My partner’s son basically grew up in the booth,” Burks said. “I can remember when he was 8 years old, saying, ‘Can I work here?’ And I said, ‘No, ‘cuz your head isn’t above the counter. But when your head is above the counter, maybe we’ll think about it.’ Well, now he’s an adult and he works in the back cooking the rice and just basically knows the whole thing inside and out. … Everybody along has the same thing. People that I knew who had little kids who were young couples are now relying on their children and grandchildren to stir the pots and carry the things.”

Burks also has a corps of volunteers who help out in exchange for free Jazz Fest tickets, including a couple returning this year from Paris, France, for yet another tour of duty. “Seeing the same people is so much fun,” she said.

Those “same people” include her fellow vendors, especially those from Food Area 1. The kickoff organizational meeting each year is like an extended family reunion, with hugs abounding as Jazz Fest perennials like Creole sausage prince Vance Vaucresson, Angelo Brocato’s owner Arthur Brocato, spinach-artichoke casserole purveyor Peggy Miranda, and Jamaican chef Cecil Palmer all reappear. “I still know everyone we started with,” Burks said. “ We run into each other occasionally at other times during the year. But for the most part, we see each other here, and it’s like old home week.”

1993: “The Fair Grounds in Flames”

Burks had the business swinging effortlessly along like a crack jazz band — until tragedy struck. On Dec. 17, 1993, a seven-alarm fire destroyed the Fair Grounds’ historic clubhouse. Burks remembers exactly where she was the moment she learned the devastating news. And appropriately enough, red beans were involved.

“I was eating red beans at the St. Charles Tavern when I looked up at the TV and saw the Fair Grounds in flames and I thought that was it,” she recalled. “Where are we going to have the festival now? It’s all over. … I thought they’d never pull it together in time for the festival the next year but they did. They didn’t miss a beat. They put all that tent stuff together and kept on going.”

The cavernous kitchen in the original building, with its massive pots and walk-in coolers and freezers, had been essential to Burks’ cooking operations. The clubhouse and its kitchen eventually were rebuilt and reopened in 1997, but for a few lean years Burks and her crew had to rough it. “It’s such a fancy kitchen since they rebuilt after the fire,” she told The Times-Picayune. “And such an improvement on how we’ve had to do it for the past few years. We’ve worked out at Delgado (Community College) and had to truck the stuff over to the grounds, and for a couple of years we worked in a tent. This is better.”

Morris Douglas

Post-Katrina Jazz Fest: “We Pulled it Together”

Things were better until Aug. 29, 2005, when the federal levees failed during Hurricane Katrina and New Orleans flooded. As a resident of Uptown’s “sliver by the river,” Burks mostly escaped the physical devastation inflicted on other parts of the city. And like most locals, she was determined to go on, and that meant firing up the city’s most beloved comfort food once again at the Fair Grounds.

“My thought about it was there’s probably not going to be a lot of people when we came back from Atlanta; there were a lot of people not here. And there are not going to be a lot of people who can work for us. But no matter what, I’m going to open even if we don’t have any customers. If the festival goes on, we’re going on too. It’s important that we do that. Whatever we could do to try to resume a life here was something that I wanted to do. We pulled it together and went back at it.”

“The crowds were small the first year after Katrina. That was really interesting going to see a lot of — the crowds were so small that I could go and actually hear music — and so I went out with a friend and listened to the Bruce Springsteen concert. And what was amazing was that you could stand in front of the Acura Stage without touching anybody. Put your arms out [like this] and there would be space all around you because there weren’t that many people. Never got to do that again.”

“I’m Going to Stay as Long as They’ll Let Me”

Like a good pot of red beans, Burks just improves with age. Asked how long she plans to keep on stirring the pot, Burks insists she still gets a thrill from the annual ritual.

“I don’t feel like quitting,” she asserted. “I really don’t. And the fact that my partner used to be my student means that he’s younger than me, and he’s still cooking. So we haven’t talked about quitting. And then he has his nephew, Pam’s son, working out in the booth a lot, so we just keep using younger people to do harder things. I guess I’m going to stay as long as they’ll let me because I enjoy it. It’s sort of like an essential part of my life at this point. This is year No. 50, so even though it’s just a couple of weeks of the year, it’s a touchstone throughout those years.”

The restaurant’s location is a little out of the box, also. You have to move past the regulars at the small Erin Rose bar, which is located at 811 Conti Street in the French Quarter, and beneath the sign with a skull and two crossed baguettes. There you’ll find either Cam or April working in the small kitchen. The two met while working together at Arnaud’s in the 1990s and have worked in some of the finest restaurants in New Orleans before coming up with the idea of non-traditional po’boy pop-up.

With all their experience and imagination, Cam and April crafted sandwiches you won’t find anywhere else.  Instead of serving the traditional fried shrimp, hot sausage or fall apart tender roast beef po’boy, topped with shredded iceberg lettuce and sliced tomatoes, you’ll find a Sweet Potato Po’boy with a black-eyed peas and pecan spread, pickled shallots and greens. You’ll also find the Seared Gulf Shrimp Po’boy with marinated carrot, daikon, cucumber, herbs, and a sriracha aioli; the Glazed Pork Belly Po’boy with NOLA rum and ginger can syrup, lime slaw and a garlic aioli; Grass-fed Beef Meatloaf Po’boy with bbq sauce, pickles and a housemade ranch; Jameson Grilled Cheese with aged cheddar and Jameson on a whole grain bread. Along with the changing daily specials, one of these may become your new “traditional” po’boy while in New Orleans.

The restaurant has been highly acclaimed since it opened. GoNOLA.com compares what Cam and April did with po’boys to what Antoines did with Oysters Rockefeller in 1899. It has also been compared to what Central Grocery did with the muffuletta in 1906 as well as what the Martin brother’s did with the original po’boy in 1929.

New Orleans Magazine named it one of the best places to get “cheap eats” in the city. Travel and Leisure said it has the best po’boy in New Orleans ranking the Coriander-Lime Gulf Shrimp Po’boy number one – ahead of all the traditional po’boys! BuzzFeed.com named the Roasted Sweet Potato Po’boy one of the “23 Truly Unbelievable Dishes Only Found In NOLA“.

I asked Cam Boudreaux, “How Do You Red Bean?”

1. Where’s your favorite place to order red beans and rice?
My favorite place to order Red Beans and Rice would probably be Popeye’s Fried Chicken, due to sheer convenience. I remember when I lived uptown, the Balcony bar used to have free red beans on Mondays. That was it for sure.

Also, local band King James and the Special Men serve an excellent pot of Red Beans and rice at their Monday weekly show at BJ’s bar in the Bywater.

2. Do you put any unique ingredients in your pot of red beans? Do you prefer dried or canned beans?
Dry Camellia brand beans of course. A very unique ingredient that my wife puts in our Red Beans is dried Fenugreek leaf. Shocker.

3. What do you eat with red beans and rice?
Hot sauce, green onions and when I was growing up, my mom used to serve minced white onions as a garnish on the side. Oh, and bread, French bread if possible, but even corn tortillas will do in a pinch. Carbs for the win! Also, the rice must be served on top. Never ever serve my red beans on top of my rice. Never.

4. Do you only eat red beans and rice on traditional Mondays or any day of the week?
Any old day of the week, we cook ‘em in a crock pot overnight so we get to smell ‘em cooking all night.

5. What are you currently working on?
We are currently working on having the best year ever at our wee po’boy shop!!!

For more information on Killer Po’boys and the current menu, you can visit their website at KillerPoBoys.com.  You can also find Cam and April on their Facebook page and on Twitter @killerpoboys. Killer Po’boys is in the back of the Erin Rose Bar at 811 Conti Street.

This story originally appeared on Red Beans & Eric and was written by Eric Olsson